Lambda sesnors

[superls]

Hi, just to give a bit of background to my question, i want to measure the afr in the exhaust.

righ onto my question.

i have a selection of lambda sensors and am a little confused to their wiring and operation.

ive done a bit or research on lambda sensors and understand the operating principle and how they work, but to be honest i was more confused after i looked into them, lol.

i have 4 sensors,

1, 1 wire one, the wire is green and is the one found on the k10 ss.
1, 3 wire one, 2 white wires and a black wire.
2, 4 wire ones, both with 3 white wires and 1 black wire.

now correct me if im wrong but they all do the same thing ultimately? during my research i discoveres that some have inbuilt heaters, and early ones didnt. leading me to believe the old one of my k10 ss is heaterless. and the 2 4 wite ones have heaters? if so does the 3 wire one have a heater? it was concluded from my research that a heated one is better.

so back to my main question how do you wire them up? the black wite is the signal out and the white ones are the heater? or am i wrong.

also i read franks blogg (i think) and he says he connected a voltmeter to his so he could read the afr, but what scale do lambda sensors operate to and what is the corresponding afr?

sorry if ive confused you, cheers in advance for any answers.

superls

 

[frank]

superls

i wired mine to the middle (white wire) and they aparently heat up in about 6 secs, the range on a narrowband is about from .1 to .9v which equates to about 1/2 a thingy of a/f/r either side of stoik (ie 14.2 to 15.2) from what i gather

 

[superls]

cheers frank, just been looking a little mare into it and found a site a bypassed before as i thought it was just trying to sell me stuff but actually proved quite usefull

http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mindex.htm

it tels you the coulors and how they work, and it ties in with what you just said,

only thing i need to do now is fit the sensor in my manifold, M18x1.5, metric fine apparently. or i need a nut and weld it into my manifold, i shal see.

 

[superls]

frank, do i remember you saying you had a wideband sensor on your car?

 

[frank]

frank, do i remember you saying you had a wideband sensor on your car?

fraid not scott, :down: i,m having to make do with the narrowband jobbie

 

[superls]

oh right fair enough, just thought i remembered you saying, but obviously not, lol. i cant seem to find one for the right money.

 

[frank]

oh right fair enough, just thought i remembered you saying, but obviously not, lol. i cant seem to find one for the right money.

i think they,re a different voltage too, to complicate things

 

[SammoHung]

yup a wideband is EASILY the most usefull to uss lot..(mod heads)..but the down side is tha widebands need a controller (some electronics) that 'handle the scientific details' so that we can read a simple 11 to 16 or something

IIR most widebands are 5 wire?

theres a OZ o2 websire that has all teh info but im too smashed to dig it

 

[superls]

just to dig this back up,

how can i tell of an o2 sensor is wideband? and do all wideband sensors need a controller?

 

[frank]

i think the wideband ones have 5 wires scott

 

[superls]

oh, well ive seen one on ebay which the seller says is wideband but it looks to only have 4 wires? dont want to buy something i already have.

 

[Veseli]

I'll try to help.

You don't need to install newer (faster) L-sensor simply because already the carburettor can't keep up with the request for AFR change from ECU. Also, there is no power improvement from this modification. I've measured the voltage and here is what I've got:

1) supply voltage
2) fast idle - engine warming up
3) normal idle - engine warm
The conclusion - it isn't working properly. It's very costly to repair the whole sistem so I won't do that. Instead I'll make a custom inlet to support Weber or Solex Z1 34-34 carburettor which doesn't need L-sensor, ECU and all those vacuum pipes.