Kangarooing and loss of power

C

csphinx

Hi all,

My first post, and unfortunatly its a technical issue. About two months ago I purchased an L reg micra 1.0 and it has been problem free. Unfortunatly after a long motorway journey yesterday it started to kangaroo and lose nearly all of its power but only at a certain amount of revs, making general driving difficult, and pulling out of junctions down right dangerous.

I phoned a mechanic and got it booked in this morning, although it drove fine on the way there :doh: Armed with research off the internet, that this might have been a throttle body solder fault, we looked at that and tested the connections, all was fine. We changed the fuel filter as that didnt look too great. Took most of the throttle to bits and cleaned individual bits and generally made sure it was okay.

The result is it kind of fixed the issue. Its not as pronounced as it was, but occasionally while driving I can feel it being reluctant to accelerate for a fraction of a second.

Any ideas?
 
do the throttle body fix, it tests fine and the ECU won't throw a fault code up, as it will still be reading, but it will be reading wrong.
 
The guy whos looked at it is sure it isnt the throttle body though, and after testing all the bits and it looking good, wouldnt solder it as it was testing fine, even though I told him they normally do test fine :doh:

Could it be anything else? Its bank holiday now, so chances of getting anyone to look at it before I need it for work next week are slim to nil. I am anything but a competant mechanic myself [I have enough problems changing a headlight] and have no solder iron, so thats not really viable.
 
I have fixed various of these for people, one of them had been to 3 Nissan dealers who couldn't find a fault. It takes about 10 mins to do it.

Where are you based?
 
had exactly the same problem with mine, off the road for a month, til my brother came back from holiday, done the throttlebody fix in about 10 minutes
 
I have the pdf, and im annoyed at the guy who looked at my car to be honest. We had the throttle body open, and inspected and tested the soldered bits as on the instructions. But as it tested okay he said that the fault was not that :( The guys a family friend, and ex chief mechanic at Ginetta, so I can't keep telling him he is wrong, as he knows a lot more about cars than I do.

If it reoccurs, ill buy a soldering iron myself and have a go, since I know how to do it and have taken the parts off myself yesterday, because im not paying to have the same bit fixed again.

It could have been the fuel filter as that was black as tar before it was replaced, and so far I have driven about 20 miles and it does seem more or less okay, with occasional very minute power loss in 2nd gear. I can live with that if it doesnt get any worse.

But basically you take the air filter off, scrape off the silicone with a knife, then solder the 6 bits inside, then put it back together right? Im in Scunthorpe, North Lincolnshire.
 
There are only 3 bits that need solder, they're the 3 connections on the right hand side of the board, you don't need to apply new solder just heat the joints up till the solder melts then let it cool
 
Same problem, sort of

Hi Guys, first time poster as well, mine are sort of the same syptoms

Mine will run great, but it is not consistant enough to give an exact time when the problem arises

my syptoms when it is playing up.

Seems to misfire
loads of flats spots
will cut out at lights or when coasting,
cant keep idle up, very eractic.
will either start straight away, or with loads of throttle pumping.
or not even start at all,
but when returning to it the next morning it will always start.

Changed all of the HT leads and replaced all 4 plugs.
when this was done, it ran like a dream, which is not common
before the above was changed i remember doing 100 mile journeys
running like a dream then it would play up, that was when the ###### would not start, lucky we were only a stones throw from our gaff, so we did not that far to push it home

Then sometimes only doing a 10 mile trip then it would play up

####### broke down at a set of lights last night, first inline as well, but after about 5 mins of cranking and pumping it got going again.

I am going to do the throttle body fix, but if this dont fix the problem, do you guys have any more ideas ???


Cheers Guys

Iain
 
hi Iain, i had similar symptoms a while back and it proved to be a dodgy plug/connector, i did the solder trick and it seemed ok, then played up, then tried a spare t/b, then soldered it, then same again after a while :glare:
and found that wiggling the maf plug induced the fault :eek:
 
Alienfish360 said:
There are only 3 bits that need solder, they're the 3 connections on the right hand side of the board, you don't need to apply new solder just heat the joints up till the solder melts then let it cool
Click to expand...

Not meaning to be a joey, if you start to melt the solder and by the looks of the pic they are placed vertical, wont the solder fall off or drip down,
 
You should always remove and replace the solder when reworking a joint since the old (contaminated) solder is likely to fail again after a while. Or use flux if you can find some, since this will clean it. Use proper 60/40 (tin/lead) solder not the crap lead-free stuff! Then spray the board with lacquer (masking the plug pins) or cover it with sealant. Job's a good-un :D

Electrics/electronics is my field by the way, although not so much do do with car electrics :)


BG
 
BG101 said:
You should always remove and replace the solder when reworking a joint since the old (contaminated) solder is likely to fail again after a while. Or use flux if you can find some, since this will clean it. Use proper 60/40 (tin/lead) solder not the crap lead-free stuff! Then spray the board with lacquer (masking the plug pins) or cover it with sealant. Job's a good-un :D

Electrics/electronics is my field by the way, although not so much do do with car electrics :)


BG
Click to expand...

Yeah, I mentioned this in another thread that this is the ideal solution, but the quick fix of re-heating can last around 6 months if you need to do it in a rush or don't have access to good quality de-soldering tools.
 
Update, fixed and deffo working back to normal

HI Guys

i am all done

As i live now in Estonia, i have come across some very good guys that do know their stuff,
If you are lucky enough to know the guy as well as i do
the payment is in cans not money,

well i bet you are all itching to find out what my problem was...

we managed to get it round his gaff when it packed up, so at least he was working with a dead car.

He checked
spark yes
petrol was pumping yes
force fed the throttle body
removed some donkeys safe made cut out, incase that was the problem.
checked injectors, not working
he thinks strange all not working
checked fuse in front engine bay, it was working all coroded, but worked when it wanted to

he removed fuse, sprayed the whole box with some sort of water repelant
repalced with new fuse, car started straight away

so there is ya answer, the good old nissans front fuse box in the
engine had got wet and damp, and made a few of the fuses coroded.


all that cost me was 4 beers and a very happy Mrs

if by any remote chance any of you guys reading this are from Estonia
i can always pass his details on to you.


thanks guys

Iain
 

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