K11 1.0 Engine woe's

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Captain_Crustacean

Guest
Hi,

I had a K11 as me first car, loved it, fantastic little car. My sis now has one, but its not so good, its let her down umbelievably :down:

Anyway, the car starts and you can rev it cleanly for a couple of seconds, and then it cuts out.

Anyone come across this? fuel pump, ECU?
Its P Reg if thats any help, pre face lift.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanx

Peter
 
from the description it does sound like a fuel problem, is the filter in the tank clogged ? if the pump was goosed it more than likely would stop working altogether.
 
5ilver Micra said:
Yeah if it was a NATS problem then the engine wouldnt even turn over....Sounds like a fuel problem like you say.
Click to expand...


Wrong, the verison of NATS he has cuts the fuel pump, you still get a spark and it turns over. It will start up because there is fuel in their still, it cuts out when there's no fuel, if you keep trying to turn it on, then it will eventually not start.

Call Nissan, sounds like NATS, and they're your only hope, they also won't come out to it, you need to tow it to them :)
 
Have had a look at things.fwn Tried interrogating the ECU as per Haynes manual. The codes I got bear no resemblance to Mr Haynes publishings!:suspect: :suspect: There seem to be two fault codes stored. 14 long blinks followed by one short, then 14 followed by three. Any ideas??

How much of the NATS system is matched? could I for example plug the transponder loop into another ecu? fwn fwn
 
Captain i might be able to find out what the trouble codes mean....i have a Technical data book at work witch is pritty handy sometimes.....ill see if i can get some answers for you tomorrow night :laugh:

It might be your Engine Coolant senser or Lambder Probe.
 
5ilver Micra said:
Captain i might be able to find out what the trouble codes mean....i have a Technical data book at work witch is pritty handy sometimes.....ill see if i can get some answers for you tomorrow night :laugh:

It might be your Engine Coolant senser or Lambder Probe.
Click to expand...

Cheers 5ilver Micra :slm: I've had a search on here re ECUs, seems to be a bit of conflicting info o_O o_O Can anyone confirm if a NATS ECU can be replaced with an earlier non NATS one? (to get round expensive key, transponder, and ecu expenses :glance: ) Cheers
 
Captain_Crustacean said:
Cheers 5ilver Micra :slm: I've had a search on here re ECUs, seems to be a bit of conflicting info o_O o_O Can anyone confirm if a NATS ECU can be replaced with an earlier non NATS one? (to get round expensive key, transponder, and ecu expenses :glance: ) Cheers
Click to expand...

nope
not simply anyway............
 
Car is now running! :grinning: :grinning: Just to wrap things up, the problem is quite common on older Micras, so I'm told. It was a corroded fuel pump fuse, in the box by the battery. This one was badly corroded and blown. What had me fooled was the fact the pump runs, and primes the injectors prior to starting. Some clever bod will no doubt be able to explain how the fuel pump runs with a blown fuse!

Anyway, the symptoms are much the same as a NATS problem, but much easier on the wallet to fix! :grinning: :grinning: :grinning: :grinning:

Thanks folks for all your advice.:grinning: :grinning:
 
Hey, im new by the way, but havent posted in the introduction forum. Anyway, my 1.0 had a similar problem a while back. I'd start the car up, and it would drive for a while, but every time i stopped, the engine just cut out. I got it checked up, and it turned out to be a problem with the entire throttle body. They were gonna charge me £600 to get it fixed but we got a conditioned part for £200 and fitted it ourselves. You can, or so ive heard, remove a little plate off the side of the body, and resolder the board or whatever's in there, but this means u lose any warranty or whatever, and its not destined to work every time.....Its hairy stuff, but overly priced if u do it through the dealer....

Also, like you said there, this problem i had is common on the k11 model....
 
I got mine done, and it was a newer reconditioned part, so shouldnt have the same problem anymore. £400, did that include fitting etc, mine cost £600 for them to do it......so we did it ourselves....
 
Craig_87 said:
I got mine done, and it was a newer reconditioned part, so shouldn't have the same problem anymore. £400, did that include fitting etc, mine cost £600 for them to do it......so we did it ourselves....
Click to expand...

I was quoted £500-£600 for the part:devil:

If it starts being a problem i will try the resolder quick fix but have to get my other car fixed first.
 

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