It's me again, bad misfire

K

kapri

Figaro is still playing up and my head is exploding !

A brief recap.

A replacement of the plugs leads ,cap and rotor, saw it not starting . Slowly but surely traced to a failed coil ,this was replaced along with the ignition module.

Took it for a run, all fine for 50 miles and then it started to misfire ...badly.

Limped it home , checked the ECU and it showed a code 11 , Cam Angle Sensor problem.

Checked the wiring no fauly found so acquired a secondhand replacement. Fitted,retimed , started, drove and a slight misfire got worse as it got warmer .

Checked the ECU , code 44 No Fault Found .

Changed the leads again for another NEW set ( wasn't particularly impressed with the previous new set , and have today fitted another set of NEW plugs .

Also put some injection cleaner though ( having replaced the fuel filiter when all ths started anyway).

Dreadful, will rev ,with slight holding back ,out of gear but in gear simply wil not pick up and move .

Check ECU again still code 44 (NFF)

So it looks like no sensors causing it ( I'm presuming a Lambda sensor would show as a fault code ?) .

So all I've got left is replace the NEW cap with a known good one and repace the NEW rotor with a known good one.

I'm not holding my breath on that working so anyone though any other suggestions in the pot ?
 
loosing any coolant, emulsion on the oil cap, overheating? mine had similar symptoms and the head gasket had gone. If its not this baz might have an idea?
 
Rad etc all look good, no gunk , or any signs of head problem like pressurising hoses etc.
I could get the coolant dye tested to be sure but only if Ican get it to run to get it there :doh:
 
Waterlooville , just outside Portsmouth.

Going to run some checks on the NEW coil today, wouldn't be the first time I've discounted something because it is new :(
 
Check your earths first off, then your fuses and starter relay (drivers side behind washer bottle). Another thing to check is that the black wallet that covers the distributor cap hasn't tugged one of the leeds loose (i had this happen to mine). Mechanically it could only be a lazy fuel pump or a sticking valve but those things are unlikely to be the case so just run up and don't the fuel and electrical system bit by bit and check that nothing has come loose or is leaking.
 
Pukka Fig stuff but not genuine Nissan f, bought from a specialistFig parts supplier. He supplied NGK ( original spec) but I've swapped to Denso while trying to sort. I've also currently put the original cap and leads back ,they weren't playing up I'd replaced them as preventative ( ?!) maintenance. Still no difference with them back on.:(

I've noticed that the idle is now surging up and down and it is holding back slightly , betweem 1-2000 rpm as you gently rev up .Also get what sounds like fuel firing in the exhaust at higher revs.

Gues I may need to be looking at fuel system issues ? Thought possibly lamda issues ?
 
Check your TOCS, throttle open control system as it is supposed to prevent this "afterburn" effect by injecting air into the exhaust manifold. They symtoms you describe sound similar those cause by bad timing, is the distributor loose? Adjusted corectly? Is the crank angle sensor working?
 
kapri said:
Pukka Fig stuff but not genuine Nissan f, bought from a specialistFig parts supplier. He supplied NGK ( original spec) but I've swapped to Denso while trying to sort. I've also currently put the original cap and leads back ,they weren't playing up I'd replaced them as preventative ( ?!) maintenance. Still no difference with them back on.:(

I've noticed that the idle is now surging up and down and it is holding back slightly , betweem 1-2000 rpm as you gently rev up .Also get what sounds like fuel firing in the exhaust at higher revs.

Gues I may need to be looking at fuel system issues ? Thought possibly lamda issues ?
Click to expand...

Ok what rotor arm? Clean up the old nissan one and put it back in as the one's ebay etc are ####e. Also have you checked all vac lines?Lambda sensor only does the fueling at idle and cruising so even if its broken wont make much difference,I break a lambda during every track outing in the st and it doesnt change anything as the fuel map still put in the same amount of fuel at full throttle
 
porkpie700 said:
Check your TOCS, throttle open control system as it is supposed to prevent this "afterburn" effect by injecting air into the exhaust manifold. They symtoms you describe sound similar those cause by bad timing, is the distributor loose? Adjusted corectly? Is the crank angle sensor working?
Click to expand...

The ma10et does not have this system, its purely an ignition problem as I've come across it before on a fig
 
Original rotor and cap refitted this morning, no change :( I've also had the coil and ignition module back off and checked resistances that are within spec and diode is still functioning in module. All check out OK but substitution is the only real way to be sure I suppose.

Re the Lamda sensor, the misfire is worst at top revs anyway.

Looks like I'm moving onto fueling problems now then. Any idea what pressure the pumps are meant to put out ?
 
kapri said:
Original rotor and cap refitted this morning, no change :( I've also had the coil and ignition module back off and checked resistances that are within spec and diode is still functioning in module. All check out OK but substitution is the only real way to be sure I suppose.

Re the Lamda sensor, the misfire is worst at top revs anyway.

Looks like I'm moving onto fueling problems now then. Any idea what pressure the pumps are meant to put out ?
Click to expand...


:suspect: Ok sometimes these problems can be tricky,How much did you pay for the leads?
If you getting it up high it could be the fuel pump , but I would be still inclined to go with an ignition problem. I have a pump from my st I could post over to you I dont want anything for it.
I had a misfiring fig that I worked on recently and I put in NGK BPR6ES plugs, Blue print leads,a spurious rotor cap and clean up the factory rotor arm and it ran fine. The spurious rotor I got for it made the idle speed unstable.The car was then warmed up and ignition timing set to 15 degs BTDC and it was like brand new. The owner had the car for 3-4 years and said it never pulled as hard and revved as smoothly.
 
Baz, they are Blueprint leads as well . I'm back to genuine Nissan cap and rotor which weren't a problem before, I replaced them as they were nearly 20 years old . Plugs were BPR6ES ,fitted a new set the same and then the equivalent Denso .

I'd changed all this before and,. coincidentally , the coil chose to fail at that moment. I changed that plus the module and the car started again and ran fine .

Took it for a roughly 50 mile drive and on the way back it totally lost power , backfiring etc so much that it blew the cat overheat warning light.


Checkd the ECU and it said cam angle sensor ,changed , fault cleared according to ECU but still no improvement.

I'm not ruling out the new parts, been caught like that before but have now substitued eveything except coil and ignition module .

Cheers for the offer of the pump, I'm going to try to rig up a test gauge tomorrow if anyone knows what pressure I'm looking for ?

Up against it on this as waiting on a knee op that going to stop me working on it very shortly :(
 
kapri said:
Baz, they are Blueprint leads as well . I'm back to genuine Nissan cap and rotor which weren't a problem before, I replaced them as they were nearly 20 years old . Plugs were BPR6ES ,fitted a new set the same and then the equivalent Denso .

I'd changed all this before and,. coincidentally , the coil chose to fail at that moment. I changed that plus the module and the car started again and ran fine .

Took it for a roughly 50 mile drive and on the way back it totally lost power , backfiring etc so much that it blew the cat overheat warning light.


Checkd the ECU and it said cam angle sensor ,changed , fault cleared according to ECU but still no improvement.

I'm not ruling out the new parts, been caught like that before but have now substitued eveything except coil and ignition module .

Cheers for the offer of the pump, I'm going to try to rig up a test gauge tomorrow if anyone knows what pressure I'm looking for ?

Up against it on this as waiting on a knee op that going to stop me working on it very shortly :(
Click to expand...

Tricky situation. See the cat light came on because on the misfire. Now I damaged an ma09 engine due to a conbination of det and a bad misfire so be carefull when driving it like this. Could be a fuel poblem, not sure on the standard pressure but I suppose it should be over 2bar vacuum off
 
If I pull off one of the smallpipes from the ECCS / or fast idle valve should I be able to get a vacuum reading on idle plus at slightly raised revs?
 
Well, one of my mates turned up with a transporter and took the car away from me so I didn't set it on fire :blush: He knows what I'm like and that I simply wouldn't give up on it until I'd sorted it . I've a knackered back which makes it difficult to play for any period of time hence why it all takes so long.

He dropped it to a good mate of his down in Kent ( I'm just outside Portsmouth) and he's fixed it . Air flow meter playing up, just enough to over fuel but not enough for the ECU to flag it up as faulty .
So it's slowly but surely had everything fail one after the other , starting off with a car thta's been running fine for 3 years apart from one plug lead failing . That's why I decided to renew a few service parts that has seemed to cause every bit connected to it to fail( or at least it seems that way :doh:)

The final test run is him driving it back up here . As always , thanks for your input into an 'orphan' car. :laugh:(Y)
 

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