Immobilised i think....

S

Seanyc5

Hi im sean new here,

Well its actually my brothers car.

Its a 98' R reg 1.0 16v K11.

The other day its just wouldnt start and the check engine light was flashing.
First thing i did was check for spark - there is a spark
Then - fuel, no fuel! But the car was low so i changed fuel filter and put some more in. Still nothing.


I then using Autodata seen that a paper clip across the two pins will reveal the code.
I got 141 and 146 both appear to NATS related as far as i can see.

I just unplugged the ignition ariel and it started for about 5 seconds.
Done it a few times and then it wont start at all again now.

Is it likely to be the ignition ariel or the ECU?
Were is the ECU lol, i found the airbag one behind the console. I can not for the life of me find the engine ECU though lol.

What do you reckon ?

Thanks in advanced,
Sean
 
the ecu is the box just underneath the ventilation system with a big blue connector bolted to it. underneath it that is prob the abs or cvt controller.
 
if the engine check light flashes while attempting to start the car, and you have no fuel. This is likely to be NATS. Ed can conver the cr to Non-Nats, or you can have it sorted by Nissan, Ed's conversion is a lot cheaper than Nissan.
 
NATS lol i bypassed it yesterday in about 15mins lol, i read on so many places it was not possible but i read somewere else it can be done! and it can.

Car now starts and runs perfect as before at a cost of £0 !
 
Seanyc5 said:
NATS lol i bypassed it yesterday in about 15mins lol, i read on so many places it was not possible but i read somewere else it can be done! and it can.

Car now starts and runs perfect as before at a cost of £0 !
Click to expand...

yeh, its not exactly rocket science eh (autodata shows how) but this is best kept in the members only section maybe :eek: ?
 
Ha right on cue this thread...
I've got a non-runner outside with all the symptoms of NATS disease.
Thought I'd cracked it when I checked the injection fuse & found it to be corroded...but it still won't go.
Plugged it into the machine,no faults showing...So I'll be tapping someone up for bypass info in the yard tomorrow...
 
The only Autodata book I could blag today was 2003,with no NATS info..
Had a web search & found this page... http://www.automotiveforums.com/t37748.html
This is taken from above site..
"There are ways of bypassing the nats. First you need to know what nats system is fitted to your car.
nats 1 has the key fob (black with lock and unlock buttons)
nats 2 onwards will have a red or blue chip in the key by the key blade. (this syatem is very hard to bypass as it runs trough the ecu and control units)
on a micra K11 with nats 1, bepending on factory or accessory fitment, you can simply unplug the nats loom and control unit, and connect the origanal loom back in.

on a P10 primera, these where mostly factory fitted. again if you have the black fob with the 2 buttons, these can be bypassed quite easy. you will need to remove the glovebox and heater motor to gain exess to the nats control unit. ( located on the A pillar) when you disconnect the nats unit you will be left with the wiring loom connector. all you have to do is branch the coresponding wires with each other. and there you have disconected nats.

there was a adapter you could fit onto the loom when you had removed the nats control unit. dealers where surposed to return it to nissan as the adapter had a surcharge of £100.

Any other nats system you will need to know electrics very well to bypass."

I asked the locksmith today about nats problems & he said he's cured loads by replacing the ignition aerial around the ignition barrel.
Any more info available...I got a non runner in the street with nats 2!!:down:
 
well sean,s was nats2 eh ss, does the car run for a while if you soak the airfilter with fuel, or drop some fuel down the t/b ?
 
frank said:
well sean,s was nats2 eh ss, does the car run for a while if you soak the airfilter with fuel, or drop some fuel down the t/b ?
Click to expand...
Yeah I had it running with some carb cleaner.
I can hear the pump priming.
Just occured to me that our alarm bloke must know a way around nats as I think you need it removed for aftermarket security systems?
 
Sean, check within the bottom cover of the ecu that no water's trapped.

this just happened to me on monday during the monsoon rain while i just started on my week long holiday touring round the uk.

after afew mins driving through the freak monsoon, i noticed a huge pool of water on the passenger side and was still tricklin in from the glovebox area.

i had to pull over to check where it leaks from, couldn't see but i figure the only place water could enter the cabin is via the fan inlet duct area, so just mopped up the soaking carpet, abort the first day till the problems fixed and now get back home.

but then the car couldn't start, the engine light flickers, wtf this is bad. this never happened before.

checked the engine bay n fuses, everythings mechanically fine and it sparks. the engine just fired up for 5secs and then never again.
and the error code was 14 - 3, nissan didn't know what it is. mine has NATS too btw.

looking closer i saw the ecu area was wet, it was soaked! oh dear
i took it out and it was pouring out water :eek:

took the top cover off, seems fine but taking the bottom cover off revealed that water had poured into the ecu, trapped between the bottom cover and the circuitry and this cases it to foam/corrode until the ecu shorts out giving the strange error code.

i dried it off with towel, reassemble, fingers crossed and it didn't start first time, engine light still flashes... tried again 10secs later, engine light goes out and it starts!!

was a mission to get back home cos it rained again and the only way to give me more time was to recirculate the air which lets the flap block off the inlet duct and prevent water from pouring along the vent and down the ecu. it worked but only problem was the serious amount of steaming up, i had to wipe the front & side window every 5 sec on one hand whilst driving with the other in poor visability. was the hardest and scariest drive ever, took forever.

Neway, got back home, ripped out the dash n soaked carpet, sprayed water down the windscreen to find the leak cause and Behold it's from a leaking clip that holds the wiper panel to the chassis, which happens to be right above the blower inlet duct.
the rubber seal between the clip and chassis has perished since its a very old 1993 model therefore letting water in.

i resealed all the clips with PU sealant, cleaned off the ecu circuit and laquered the whole underside, reassembled everything within a night, kept the carpet out since its useless and'll be mouldy soon (prob take off some weight too :p) and today i'm back from a mega trek round uk and not a single drip or problem since.

i feel i should write this up with some pics as a sticky under a 'common micra problem' or DIY section to let other people aware. what do you think?
 
Its NATS 2 ECU red blade on key.

Its been fine ever since, but my brother went to start it with his spare key and the problem has came back same codes.
Ive just done what i did before but to no avail??


I tried both keys and no luck.

Any more info on it?

PS. the car has been started 20+times since without a hitch and he goes to use spare key and it came back!..


Thanks,
Sean
 
nats2

When I had this problem last year I found an auto electrician who came out, tested the ignition and reprogrammed the two keys I had, worked ever since, cost £45-00 +vat!Birmingham Area(Y)(Y)
 
Hi I want to remove the nats2 from my 1998 micra, my car is too good to scrap but the cost of fixing the immobiliser is way too much and may not be the only problem, and so does anyone know how to get rid of the lot or bypass it
Thanks
 
hi,
someone has told me that what i need to do to bypass my immobiliser is in the autodata manual, does anyone know where i need to look.
thank you
Al
 
boonann said:
hi,
someone has told me that what i need to do to bypass my immobiliser is in the autodata manual, does anyone know where i need to look.
thank you
Al
Click to expand...
there was nothing in my autodata Al, and that was probably for the nats 1 that i had bypassed on my old super s (2 button fob like the rover metro,s had) your nats is inside the ecu, and cant be bypassed.
your cheapest option would be to fit a pre-nats loom and ecu
 
thank you Frank, i now understand, i have been told about and ecu that Fusion Motorsport sells, will it work on my 1998 micra?
thanks in advance.
 
I recently took a nats 2 car with a replaced ign barrel, immob arial and key to a Nissan dealership and they coded the new key to the car for a very reasonable price.
 
Help

Mine is a 1996 so it has the nats 1 with the imob button separate to the key. I have pulled my passenger foot well clear and I can no see what I should be re wiring. I can not see the bit that needs to be re wired to disable the nats system. Can anyone describe what it looks like or were its connected. There are a whole bunch my maybes behind the centre storage consol but I do not want to chance messing things up. Please help I am so ticked of, I only used the missed car to jump start mine and know its not working.

many thanks

Carl
 
Carl Brotherwood said:
Help

Mine is a 1996 so it has the nats 1 with the imob button separate to the key. I have pulled my passenger foot well clear and I can no see what I should be re wiring. I can not see the bit that needs to be re wired to disable the nats system. Can anyone describe what it looks like or were its connected. There are a whole bunch my maybes behind the centre storage consol but I do not want to chance messing things up. Please help I am so ticked of, I only used the missed car to jump start mine and know its not working.

many thanks

Carl
Click to expand...

hi
the ignition switch fails after continuous years of load.
the jumpstart may have been the last load it could take, worth a try to replace yours
should be able to pick one up from here
 
but the car does try to start when I turn the key, it just will not fire up and its showing that the immobiliser is not turning off like it should do? do you still think this could be the ignition switch?
 
Well my gut instinct is that if the immobiliser lights goes of it will start, the light is not responding to the thob, I am sure that the immobiliser flashed quickly after turning the key one stage. so yes maybe it could be the ignition switch.

I am gonna try the bypass option on the immob because I am sure if I can find the blessing bit I need to re wire I will be ok.

If anyone can describe the bit and where it is It would be a great help as I have looked but I can not see what I thought would be there????
 

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