Help With Fitting Bike Carbs

pork

pork

Club Member
I feel that my eagerness has got the better off me again. I have the bike carbs and manifold made up, but have no idea of how to fit them. Iv asked a garage but they have quoted a minimum of £300 to do it. I'm fairly competent at most things and can follow instructions to the letter. Jus need to know what pipe does what and what goes where.

I know it's a ling shot asking, but everyone has been a big help with everything else that Iv asked, but that quote has put me off paying someone to do it
 
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if they,ve previously been fitted to a 10, then you just need to bolt them on and connect the pipes and cable.
but if not then you will probably have to make brackets up, and source connectors and pipes etc :eek:
 
I got it all off superls, everything looks spot on and the mani is a piece of art lol. Iv printed off a figment guide that was on here, but beings I'm no mechanic, have no idea what tube does what. I know I'm gunna end up payoff someone to do it, but would like to attempt it
 
Hi R Reg i have a bike set up on me K11.... those brown tubes are the fuel lines for each pair of carbs, they should be connected by a T-piece to one line which will be you main fuel line... the top two lines look like breather pipes (id you put petrol in the carbs and turn them upside down you will get a lap full of fuel there incase or surge i vent mine back into the main petrol tank breather) basicaly if you have fuel running into the bottometwo "brown" pipes @ low pressure you should turn the key and have a running car :) may need to hold the choke if there is one.. hope this helps
 
Skinner_87 said:
Hi R Reg i have a bike set up on me K11.... those brown tubes are the fuel lines for each pair of carbs, they should be connected by a T-piece to one line which will be you main fuel line... the top two lines look like breather pipes (id you put petrol in the carbs and turn them upside down you will get a lap full of fuel there incase or surge i vent mine back into the main petrol tank breather) basicaly if you have fuel running into the bottometwo "brown" pipes @ low pressure you should turn the key and have a running car :) may need to hold the choke if there is one.. hope this helps
Click to expand...

Yes, it does. Thanks :)
 
Wot about the dizzy and brake vac pipes? Do I have to tap into the manifold or us there another way?
 
pork said:
Wot about the dizzy and brake vac pipes? Do I have to tap into the manifold or us there another way?
Click to expand...

Im running an CG13 motor so the ecu sorts the dizzy but the manifold on cylinder one has had a take off welded in for the brake servo & works a treat i imagine you will need the same for the vac advance on the dizzy say of cylinder 4?

Another thing to note is you need a braket off the engine for the throttle cable to attach to.. & as the butterfly on bike carbs opens in alot shorter turn than a standard nissan tb your throttle pedal will not reach the floor so you will need to rig up a new pedal stop.. (a long double nutted bolt through the pedal works well)
 
for the vac advance you need to have a take off from each inlet manifold tract, connect them up to an equalizer which then connects to the vac advance on the dizzy and then to the brake servo

Ill take a photo of how ive done mine tomorrow.
 
RTLkyuubi said:
for the vac advance you need to have a take off from each inlet manifold tract, connect them up to an equalizer which then connects to the vac advance on the dizzy and then to the brake servo

Ill take a photo of how ive done mine tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Cheers, tapped each inlet last night and fitted some push-fit airline fittings.

Do I jus leave the top tubes on the carbs alone? Or do they need to go somewhere or have something plumbed onto them?
 
pork said:
Cheers, tapped each inlet last night and fitted some push-fit airline fittings.

Do I jus leave the top tubes on the carbs alone? Or do they need to go somewhere or have something plumbed onto them?
Click to expand...
i would have gone for a fitting on 1 of the tracts, then a connector block on the baulkhead personally
 
frank said:
i would have gone for a fitting on 1 of the tracts, then a connector block on the baulkhead personally
Click to expand...

dunno how detrimental it would be, but it would un balance the cylinders and there would only be a vacuum to the vac advanced and brake servo a 1/4 of the time (theres no vacuum when the inlet valve is shut, so need the vacuum created by the other cylinders, if im right? lol)
 
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Heres the manifold block I made, 4 pipes, 1 to each cylinder, 1 small pipe to the vac advanced and then behind my hand, the large pipe to the brake servo
 
yours probably act as a balance pipe at idle too eh ryan (if the butterflys are,nt matched perfectly open all the same, but i think as long as there is a small reservoir/log the pulses will only be slight (like with an air compressor that you spray with)

 

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frank said:
yours probably act as a balance pipe at idle too eh ryan (if the butterflys are,nt matched perfectly open all the same, but i think as long as there is a small reservoir/log the pulses will only be slight (like with an air compressor that you spray with)
Click to expand...

Dont know tbh haha. Just thought it would be the easiest way to connect 4 vac pipes to 2 pipes of different sizes.
 
I have no knowledge off engines, but I can pretty much do most things once I have the info. That's why this place is such a big help
 
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right, its all in, fired up first time no problem(Y)

quite proud of myself really:p

il state this again before i get ripped, I HAVE NO KNOWLEDGE OFF ENGINES lol but once i start it up it will just keep on revving till it sounds like itll go pop, unless i keep the choke pulled constantly!! is it ok to drive like this? is there somthing else i need to do?
 
you may need filters to get it to drive properly pork, or try a strip of carpet tape over the bellmouths/faces and pierce a hole for each carb (4 x 30mm maybe ? )
 
looking sweet mate (Y) is you accelerator cable to tight? looks to have a bit of a sharp angle at the carb end. might be just the pic?
 
If these are cbr600 carbs there should be a remote idle adjustment, make sure thats turned down as it sounds like the the idle screw is holding the butterflys way too open. Opening the choke means that your flooding the engine and the rev's drop from it. (if im reading what youve put correctly.) can you get a video of it?
 
Also no need for airfilters, but stick the standard (or get some new ones) trumpets back on. IIRC the longer they are, the better the torque is low down and shorter they are, the better torque at the top end. They also make them sound nicer too :D
 
RTLkyuubi said:
If these are cbr600 carbs there should be a remote idle adjustment, make sure thats turned down as it sounds like the the idle screw is holding the butterflys way too open. Opening the choke means that your flooding the engine and the rev's drop from it. (if im reading what youve put correctly.) can you get a video of it?
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Il try get a vid up tomorrow if it don't work after adjusting that screw
 
Ok, Iv loosened the idle screw all the way, still revs the ass off it. I can sometimes get the revs to drop if I press down really hard where the throttle cable goes. So I imagine I'm closing the butterfly valves manually. What can I do? Is there a way of tensioning the springs to close it better?
 
Lol. Fixed that problem. Found other screws to even and close the valves properly:p

New problem. The 4 little brass tubes in each of the carbs dribble out quite a bit of fuel which is quite scary beings it can drip onto a hot exhaust!!! Dont fancy Goin bang jus yet. I Havnt got a fuel pressure regulator yet. Is this the problem? Also it comes out the black plastic tubes, between each pair of carbs
 
hopefully you can see this in the video, it doesnt rev uncontrolably like it used to, but i have to press the valve close to get the revs down to a nice idling speed, plus end of vid shows the fuel dribbling out and dripping everywhere


[video]http://s58.photobucket.com/albums/g240/porkstar5000/?action=view&current=IMG_0508.mp4[/video]
 
yeah it needs a fuel pressure reg mate them tubes are over flow tubes and it will leak from them when to much pressure is in the float bowls. i cant watch the vid till after midnight grr cause theres a stupid content lock on my comp.
 
sr20bud said:
yeah it needs a fuel pressure reg mate them tubes are over flow tubes and it will leak from them when to much pressure is in the float bowls. i cant watch the vid till after midnight grr cause theres a stupid content lock on my comp.
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Cool, more money :wasntme:
 

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