CMF_detach8
» CMF MemberHey all, its been about three weeks since I've gotten my car back from the workshop from a top overhaul. Now my engine stalls. I've not gotten to re soldering my throttle body but I did try cleaning my idle valve. The symptoms are quite weird and the old mantra goes "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" so I won't touch the TB until I can determine it's faulty.
Here's how I reproduce the stall (about 50% success rate) on my 1996 K11 (auto transmission).
1. Drive around until engine is warm. This reduces my idling to about 600rpm with gears engaged.
2. With air conditioning switched ON, drive around and come to a stop, e.g. at a traffic junction.
3. Just as the car is about to stop (engine rpm should be around 1k at this point), switch off A/C.
4. The engine rpm will quickly drop below 500rpm mark and cut off.
I've tried the ECU flash code readouts, even drove around with it. Here's the readings:
* ECU flash codes in mode 1 reads 5 long + 5 short.
* ECU in mode 2 flashes constantly with about 0.5s pause at 2krpm
* ECU in mode 2, A/C off, gears engaged (very low idle RPM) gives very quick flashes.
* ECU in mode 2, cruising gives consistent flashes. I realise it doesn't flash when accelerating (running lean i suppose?)
Some observations on my engine idle speeds
* Cold start idle rpm is approx 1k.
* Warm engine gives an idle rpm approx 750 (3/4 mark).
* With gears engaged and NO A/C gives idle rpm approx 600.
* With gears engaged + A/C gives idle rpm approx 750.
Sometimes I can feel the engine stalling. When the A/C happens to cut out at the same time I'm coming to a stop, my brake pedal will drop lower and a sudden strong braking force is felt.
My FC is also pretty bad. I'm doing approx 10/11 km/l on my K11. I am a slow driver and don't usually exceed 3k rpm on the throttle. I use Mobil 95. 98 seems to give worse FC.
Any advise is much appreciated. THis has been bugging me ever since. :-(
Here's how I reproduce the stall (about 50% success rate) on my 1996 K11 (auto transmission).
1. Drive around until engine is warm. This reduces my idling to about 600rpm with gears engaged.
2. With air conditioning switched ON, drive around and come to a stop, e.g. at a traffic junction.
3. Just as the car is about to stop (engine rpm should be around 1k at this point), switch off A/C.
4. The engine rpm will quickly drop below 500rpm mark and cut off.
I've tried the ECU flash code readouts, even drove around with it. Here's the readings:
* ECU flash codes in mode 1 reads 5 long + 5 short.
* ECU in mode 2 flashes constantly with about 0.5s pause at 2krpm
* ECU in mode 2, A/C off, gears engaged (very low idle RPM) gives very quick flashes.
* ECU in mode 2, cruising gives consistent flashes. I realise it doesn't flash when accelerating (running lean i suppose?)
Some observations on my engine idle speeds
* Cold start idle rpm is approx 1k.
* Warm engine gives an idle rpm approx 750 (3/4 mark).
* With gears engaged and NO A/C gives idle rpm approx 600.
* With gears engaged + A/C gives idle rpm approx 750.
Sometimes I can feel the engine stalling. When the A/C happens to cut out at the same time I'm coming to a stop, my brake pedal will drop lower and a sudden strong braking force is felt.
My FC is also pretty bad. I'm doing approx 10/11 km/l on my K11. I am a slow driver and don't usually exceed 3k rpm on the throttle. I use Mobil 95. 98 seems to give worse FC.
Any advise is much appreciated. THis has been bugging me ever since. :-(