Hello I'm a newbie hear.

First of all, hello to you all, I'm normally found on the SXOC but have recently purchased a Micra K11 1.0L as a run about (my 200sx only does 20mpg and can't get over the speedbumps at college).

The Micra I bought is a 1.0 Mauritius with 150,000 miles on the clock! I paid £130 for it. Its running as sweet as a nut, I very much doubt its the original engine and gearbox on the car as both work really nicely, except for a little bit of timing chain rattle. No mayo in the oil or coolant which is a good sign.

Every panel has been keyed but I really don't mind as its not gone through the primer and I didn't buy it to look nice, its my practical cheap transport.

The only problems it seems to have are that the interior fan does not work at all. I searched on here and went to a scrap yard to change the resistor card under the glove box but this hasn't fixed it. What should I change next? I'm thinking the black box behind the glove box.

Also, when it idles, sometimes I hear running water quite loudly, I've got absolutely no idea what thats all about!

Also the gearlever wobbles about way too much and doesn't centre. I've heard this is an easy fix from someone on the SXOC but how exactly do you go about fixing this?

Cheers in advance :grinning:
 
Hello there and welcome to the club! :grinning: I'm sure you'll be able to get plenty of help on here. Have you tried the "search" facility yet? :upside: Perhaps the replacement resistor card you got was also faulty?
 
Nooooooooooooo I just lost a massive post explaining it all cos I hit back!!! grr

I'll try again....

Welcome to the club! I saw one of your guys around Tonbridge in Kent today, Maroon (or dark red) with an SXOC sticker on the windscreen.

Anyway, as for your problems:

Does the interior fan work at all? Even with the resistor blown it should still function on the highest setting, if not this points to a dead fan or possibly a blown fuse(?)

Trickling water on idle, I had a similar thing on my old 1.0 K11, I never got it fixed but I guessed it may have been cos the fuel filter was a bit clogged (don't quote me though as I stopped using the car before I got a look at it lol).

As for the gearstick wobbling, it could be your rear engine mount. Does the stick leap back a bit when you put your foot down? I have this problem on my 1.3 but I'm getting some Nismo mounts soon so I'm just living with it for the moment.

As for the stick not returning to centre, I think that could be down to one of the return springs either being busted or missing. Does it still work from the other side?

Hope this information helps, and welcome to the club again!

James :)
 
welcome to the MSC mate..

to fix the gear stick returning spring..get uder the car and remove the heat shield pannels over the gearstick bottom(and place in nearest bin!) you will now see a spring that has broken at one end and is hanging down(unless it has fallen off) but if it is still there you can get some pliers and pull the first coil of the spring out and shape it like the other end ,and replace it back so it will work.

if it has fallen off you will have to buy a new one..
 
Thanks for the advice, the fan doesn't work at all and the fuse is ok. I've noticed that the engine revs drop at idle slightly when I turn it off, so this probably points to a duff motor (I'll head back to the scrapyard me thinks). Is it just a case of replacing the black box thingy behind the glove box?

As for the gearstick, it doesn't wobble as such, what I meant is that its just slack so I think that is a centering spring. I pulled the gaitor off and looked but all there is under that is a little hole covered in grease. I guess I have to lift the metal plate around it and look under that for the retaining springs.

As for the running water, I'd be very happy if it was just the fuel filter, they're really cheap to buy and it would be an easy fix. I was looking at ripping one out whilst I was in the scrappy today but I decided against it :(

Thanks for the quick responses. Seems like this clubs got a nice bunch of people on it.
 
Cheapskate said:
Thanks for the quick responses. Seems like this clubs got a nice bunch of people on it.
Hey, we're a japanese car club, it's par for the course! ;)

As I said about the fuel filter, not 100% (im not really 50% tbh lol) but it's worth a try, and if it fixes it i'll have a go on my old one in the garage before I try and sell it lol.

James :)
 
Rik you beat me to my last post. Just the advice I was after. Glad I didn't start taking it apart from inside the car! Cheers.

One problem down, just the running water and broken heater fan to fix. I'll order a new fuel filter off eBay as I probably need one anyways after 150,000 miles, and I'll pop back to the scrappy and get the heater box.

Almost forgot, the engine has a fairly hefty oil leak coming from the bottom of the plate that covers the cam chain. I've opened it up and was just going to clean it and put a load of liquid gasket round it. Don't know how I'd actually put a normal gasket in it as one of the bolts that holds it in can't come all the way out as the bloody engine mount is in the way. What a stupid bit of design! Are there actually gaskets for this or is liquid gasket the best thing?
 
My camchain cover has liquid gasket around it and it seems to be holding fine ;) It's just the liquid gasket on the cam cover thats peeing out oil :blush:

Ah well, new engine in soon ;)
 
yeah liquid gasket will hold it no problem..infact i think they come like that anyway ..please correct me if im wrong
 
you should be able to remove the heater fan motor on it's own. 3 screws on it and it drops down next to the resistor card iirc.
as for the chain cover, just place a jack under the engine to take the weight and remove the mount.
 
silver_si said:
as for the chain cover, just place a jack under the engine to take the weight and remove the mount.

Just did that this afternoon. Cleaned the plate all up scraped the old liquid gasket off, put nice new blue stuff on and bolted it back in. That won't leak for a while. Shame the stuff takes 24 hours to dry :down:
 
RIK said:
you will now see a spring that has broken at one end and is hanging down(unless it has fallen off) but if it is still there you can get some pliers and pull the first coil of the spring out and shape it like the other end ,and replace it back so it will work.

You can do this without taking the exhaust off then?
 
ChrisB said:
You can do this without taking the exhaust off then?

i think if you drop it off the rubber mounts you can move it to the side to get to the springs...you dont have to take the actaul exhaust to bits
 
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