OK, get ready for an epic…..may be this would be better in the DIY GUIDE section with some photos??
Safety: Make sure that car can’t roll when the hand break is released.
On my car there are two screw covers to prise off on the hand break cowl ..The first is in the cowl-dish this uncovers two LARGE posi/phillips? self-tapping screws. The second is at the front of the cowl and uncovers one LARGE screw. When the screws are out you can remove the cowl (you may need to release the hand brake to achieve this....don’t roll down the hill!!).
The next bit is fiddly...ideally you need a 'stubby' (SHORT) small phillips/posi.
The switch (if I can recall) is screwed to the drivers' side mounting plate.
Before re-moving the switch, check that the switch is not just loose or that it may just need adjusting. If this is the case…slacken the screw that holds the switch to the mounting plate by a small amount so that the position of the switch can be rotated by a few degrees. The position of the switch should be set such that the switch contacts are closed when the hand break is fully released and such that the switch contacts open just before the first click of the ratchet. When the switch is in the right position,...hold it there while tightening the screw and re-check its operation after tightening.
If you’re suspicious of the switch or just plain curious, you can remove the screw completely. When the screw is almost out, catch it and carefully move the switch away from the plate. The switch will be tethered by a short single wire. This is the positive I think...as the ground/earth/chassis connection is made by a small tab on the flexible metal strip in the switch that presses up against the mounting plate when the switch is fixed on to the mounting plate firmly.
Turn the switch upside-down and inspect the area of the flexible metal plate that comes into contact with the pointed contact that is connected to the signal wire.
The flexible metal piece should be pushing against the pointed contact (normally closed). If this is not the case, you may have to ‘persuade’ the flexible metal strip to do so (you may need a lot of patience for this and you could trash the switch trying if things don’t go well). If the switch is closed then there may be a lot of oxidation on the contacts causing the switch not to close fully (in the electrical sense). In desperation scraped my contacts clean with a surgeon’s scalpel. Although the preferred safe method is to buy a can of switch cleaner (aerosol with a stiff brush attachment).
Refit the switch and set its adjustment as described above. Then refit the cowl, with the LARGE screws and fit the screw covers (push-fit).
MAKE SURE THE HANDBREAK IS APPLIED WHEN YOURE DONE.
Hope this is usefull
