funny noise from rear (no pun intended)

[will930]

right after no problems, only that she didnt want to start the other day till i swore at her and promised ill give her some fuel etc etc etc....

and its still pulling with a knock at the front but the ball joint etc are fine and the camber needs setting!

but to the point im getting a noise from the rear.... i intend to strip the rear tomorrow to make sure its nothing bashing around but since i fitted the coilovers i get some rattly noise on any kind of surface but worse over lumpy round etc.... and mainly from the left hand side i think..... maybe a wheel brearing? everything is tight and secure as it should be!

any other suggestions

 

[frank]

did you fit m10 bolts to the shock bottoms will ?

 

[will930]

i think they are a deffinate tight fit through it all frank.... if they were aloud to move id be suprised because there as tight as i could get them and i had to sit on the car to even get the nut on the top... but i can check!

 

[frank]

i think they are a deffinate tight fit through it all frank.... if they were aloud to move id be suprised because there as tight as i could get them and i had to sit on the car to even get the nut on the top... but i can check!

the corsa shocks have a 10mm hole tho eh will, and if the bolts are,nt megga tight they will rattle in the 12mm mountholes

 

[will930]

ah poo sticks.... ill go tighter and look for signs of movement

 

[r-reg-sr]

yep could be this to cause your squishing the valve shutut, you plonker. i am doing mine tomoro or no mot

THIS should be k11 diy guide,,,,,

k few diagrams

when resting at stock height the little nut at the end of the spring rod pulls the bias arm away from the internal valve plunger, so to zero pressure on the valve the brake fluid can flow in & out freely

when the rear is lowered below stock the nut no longer pulls the arm back at rest and instead allows the spring to push up against the bias arm which then applies force against the valve plunger causing a constant restriction.
when braking, the brake pressure from the master cylinder can overcome this restriction, rear brakes would respond a little slower

but when releasing the brake pedal the rear brakes return spring may not be strong enough to overcome this restriction so the fluid retains the pressure and the brakes bind

so what you need to do is lower the nut till it pulls the bias arm back out, just enough to relieve pressure off the bias valve

 

[will930]

my rear brakes run freely dude.... when ive jacked it up on the axle.... so it must be siezed and i cant get to it to check anyway.... i can try something i guess lol.... but the car needs to be at perfect rest as if its just been driven and parked

 

[will930]

although it has been something in my head for about a year now? lol

 

[Tchaaa]

I found that when I had a knocking sound from the back of my K11 that one of the link arms on the suspension had just been completely destroyed. Maybe worthwhile giving them all a check?

 

[will930]

after a closer inspection i found one of the trailing arms sitting wonky and bit of play so thats possibly the cause indeed

 

[r-reg-sr]

maybe after lowering the bias valve has been getting squeez'd so long causing brake bind
1- adjust brake bias,give the bias pistons a good pull down a few times (mines return up after pull down by themself,dont know if thats normal
2- you got drums i got disc, so first thing cold start when i release handbrake i get the binding noise rolling back but its gone after applying handbrake again and releasing,,,,,,you wanna make sure your shoes arent creating that rut in the drum,then cause removal problems