fault codes 141 & 145

S

sev7

Hi new to this forum, but can anybody tell me what the fault codes 141 & 145 mean. I started the car and drove about 100 yards to turn it round then when I came to start it again it wouldnot start & the engine light was continually flashing. Have read how to read the code by bridging the connector in the fuse-box which is how i found the codes. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Still not having any luck. The battery has been a bit dodgy and i think the weather may have finally killed it, so I have replaced it and it turns over but will not fire. I have tried turning it over for about 30 second bursts with my foot flat on the floor but nothing and with my foot off the pedal and still nothing. the light keeps flashing even after resetting it . I have looked at all the fuses i can find but i cant see anything wrong. Any ideas please.
 
if the injector fuse (near the battery) is ok, then its probably a nats problem :eek:
what year is the car sev ?
 
If pre 1997, check the fusebox in front of the battery.
Very common the fuel injection fuse/holder corrodes. I had this problem on a 96 1.0L and it caused a 141 and 143.
On mine the legs had corroded away from the body of the fuse.
Someone else had the same errors as me and it was a corroded ecu
 
i would check if you have a constant live at the injectors sev (ignition on) that will answer the fuse question
then try a drop of fuel down the throttle body
 
Will give that a try but too dark outside now. Will have to wait until tonights hangover clears, most probably sunday:p If anybody has any more ideas please let me know. How do you check the nats ?
 
Changed fuel injection fuse-not starting.Checked for power at the injector-ok-not starting. Poured small amount of fuel down throttle body-engine started, ran for 1 second then stopped, I repeated this and the same result. Any ideas please.
 
sev7 said:
Changed fuel injection fuse-not starting.Checked for power at the injector-ok-not starting. Poured small amount of fuel down throttle body-engine started, ran for 1 second then stopped, I repeated this and the same result. Any ideas please.
Click to expand...

if there is fuel pressure in the rail, then its looking like a nats problem sev :eek:
 
Ok ignition turned on, removed fuel pipe and nothing came out. When i switch on the ignition i can hear the pump start as usual.
 
So does this point to something simple like a blocked filter or is it something to do with the nats. I do not understand how the nats works apart from the coded key, but when i turn on the ignition the red flashing led goes out which i pressume means that the system is working correctly.
 
No i put £15 in 9 miles ago so there is plenty of fuel. You said that the nats disables the injector earths, when i tested the power to the injectors i put one probe to the plug and the other to earth through the body, was this correct as that would bypass the injectors earth circuit?
 
nats cuts the earthing signals from the ecu, so there should be a constant live to each injector sev,
but if you have no fuel pressure then thats what you need to investigate eh (ie, remove the pipe from the pump, under the rear seat "with caution")
 
Just had my partner turn on the ignition whilst i watched the filter and petrol came out, so that means the filter shouldnt be blocked and the pump is pumping. I did not try to turn the engine over.
 
sev7 said:
Just had my partner turn on the ignition whilst i watched the filter and petrol came out, so that means the filter shouldnt be blocked and the pump is pumping. I did not try to turn the engine over.
Click to expand...

then we,re probably back to a nats problem
 
read a few after searching and something caught my attention, i have been having problems with my wipers recently and have taken the stalk off to inspect/clean it and i am wondering if i have damaged the ring around the ignition switch or dislodged the wiring as it seems that this would cause this. If this is the case what is the best remady.
 
Will do that thanks frank but i was wondering where i would get a replacement if it was damaged or what to look for damage wise as it seems that if i replace it with a second hand one i will have to get it re-coded at nissan. Your help has been much apreciated.
 
I think this is the problem, just took it off an as i was removing it it came apart. It looks like the ring is connected by two very thin wires to the black plastic housing but you can remove the circuit board inside complete so i am wondering if i get another, could i just change the circuit board and wiring intact and get away without recoding?
 

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