Door lock mech frozen?

[SplanK]

Last few weeks I have noticed that the drivers door does not unlock/open after sitting over night with freezing temps either using the external or internal handle. All 3 other doors are fine and open no problem, just the drivers side. Using the key makes no difference.

I have applied white grease and sprayed a liberal amount of W40 around the door catch area, however it was still problematic this morning.

Once open (usually by repeat unlocking/locking), its fine and the problem does not come back until sat over night again with freezing temperatures.

Although this morning I got it open prior to my Mrs going out, however 30 minutes later she complained that she could not get in. A couple of lock/unlocks it opened and again was fine for the rest of the day.

Anybody else experience this? Is this a sign that the door catch/lock mech is failing and I should consider replacing before it gets worse and prevents the door opening at all? Or is there any further service I can do such as lubricating anything else?

 

[vexorg]

Are you sure it's the lock and not the whole door?

 

[SplanK]

100% certain. When the whole door is frozen you get a small bit of play out of the door as it moves on the rubber and free's up with the application of warm water. Even pushing from the inside does not allow the door to move at all.

Unlocking/locking repeatedly eventually works and the door opens effortlessly.

 

[vexorg]

Might not be the catch itself, but the locking rod parts that are freezing up.

 

[Deleted member 31521]

My k12 is suffering from the inner handle not functioning I had it twice now and when I removed the door card suddenly the handle came back to life?
Can't be certain but maybe the mech or cables have frozen and some how this causes them not to function as normally intended?

Have also experienced the frozen door this is hard to open but a totally different problem.
Just thought I would add some info.
When the door wouldn't open no resistance on the handle.
After door card removed suddenly the handle had resistance feel again and it opens and closes as normal.

I'm looking into this but as I'm not well atm and the weather ain't so great I gave up once the door opened again.
My plan is to replace if it occurs again.
But I really want to find out the cause and repair the unit without buying new or used as the prices of this item that I'm seeking are stupidly high for something that to me resembles a cable from a bike?

Oh and something else I'm parked awkwardly in a cold spot that is hit by frost cold winds and everything else winter has to offer..

I think it's the cold and some part is frozen.
Silicone spray might work as advised for the door rubbers when frozen I have not try this but I'm sure that will work. (For stuck door)
The mech ain't frozen tho as the outside handle works as normal.
And the inside handle just works when it wants

This used to happen alot with the golf in winter sometimes in snow but always below freezing and rest of time would open fine.

 

[SplanK]

Thanks - it sounds very similar, but in my case both handles are inoperable as though the lock has not disengaged.

I dont think the cables themselves are frozen as the external and internal handles operate without resistance. If the cable had frozen or seized then the handles would be stiff.

When I placed my hand against the door before I could feel a vibration as though something was trying to actuate, but it felt stronger after a few unlock/lock attempts which again suggests motor/solenoid is sticking.

I did just watch a vid on Youtube that shows similar symptoms as you describe but in a E10 Note. I believe the E10 shares components with K12 and E11 shares some components with the K13 and are similar in fitment. The cure in that video was to replace the mech with cables.

For £25-30 and around a couple of hours, im tempted just to get one of ebay but you never know if that has its own problems!

 

[Deleted member 31521]

By resistance I'm meaning compared to the other side that is working fine.
Maybe the word more appropriate to this would be tension like that of a bike brake cable when I was having the problem today I was testing and listening for any sounds. The test was to feel for the tension in the cable or lack of because I was suspecting it had dislodged from one end or the other and I was listening to find out where only to learn that it returned back to working again suddenly with the same door panel removal as first time I was looking.
It also come to mind that the mech could some how be frozen but I was running the motor with heating engaged for 30 mins to defrost. Might still possibly be below freezing at the mechanism or at least the part that was not functioning at the time.

 

[Deleted member 31521]

Today I just try the handle inside and it work fine. I will let this be as the car doesn't go out far or often.
Funny how it seems like nothing happen and the handle is working yet again.

 

[SplanK]

Mine was working this morning as well - no minus temperatures over night (although its close!) - even managed to give my Megane RS a bath!

It shows my particular issue is 100% temperature related - I just need to decide if its worth bothering moving forward with a replacement!

 

[Deleted member 31521]

Temps were plus 2 degree here still ice on floor and roof tho.
Little things like this sometimes cause me to wanna get shot of it but at end of day it's something to keep me busy lol

 

[Beryy2]

Thanks - it sounds very similar, but in my case both handles are inoperable as though the lock has not disengaged.

I dont think the cables themselves are frozen as the external and internal handles operate without resistance. If the cable had frozen or seized then the handles would be stiff.

When I placed my hand against the door before I could feel a vibration as though something was trying to actuate, but it felt stronger after a few unlock/lock attempts which again suggests motor/solenoid is sticking.

I did just watch a vid on Youtube that shows similar symptoms as you describe but in a E10 Note. I believe the E10 shares components with K12 and E11 shares some components with the K13 and are similar in fitment. The cure in that video was to replace the mech with cables.

For £25-30 and around a couple of hours, im tempted just to get one of ebay but you never know if that tracking software has its own problems!

Hey! Do you remember what video you watched?

 

[SplanK]

Sorry I dont!

I have yet to do anything with this BTW! Figured I would leave it and see what happens this winter before making a decision (read - too lazy to fix!)