Cold start problem

[Blue]

Hi guys

I’ve got a cold start problem on my car which started when the weather started to turn:down:. When I come to start the car in the morning the engine will turn over but wont start. I will try it again giving by pressing the accelerator slightly it will then start for a couple of seconds before stalling. ill then try it again and it misfires and pops like mad before catching and spluttering for a couple of seconds before the revs pick up and it runs like clockwork all day then, even if I let the engine cool and come to start it later on in the day it will start first time no probs. I’ve put a brand new TB on thinking it might be that but no luck, there’s new sparks and dizzy rotor in there I’ve also serviced the car as well. when the engine is warm the car runs sweet no throttle lag or lumpy tick over etc. any ideas as I’m now stumped.

cheers(Y)

 

[Shaun]

Check your battery to be on the safe side aswell...
you'll be amazed the difference a battery will make.
Hope you sort it out! (Y)

 

[Blue]

it shouldnt be the battery as it is less than 6 months old but ill check the level asap(Y)

 

[pollyp]

sounds like during stone cold starts its either flooding or the idle control valve is stuck closed so the idle speed is too slow to be sustainable. check ur coolant sensor is within spec as it could make the ecu run too rich then take out and clean the idle valve at front of the TB

 

[meteora]

i'm experiencing the same thing every morning.

it starts fine the rest of the day. it only happens when the car sits over night.

what I discovered to mitigate the problem is when I start the car I half-press the accelerator (after the click I then half press on the accelerator) (it shows signs of conking out but after a few seconds it idles normally).

I also noticed on the exhaust that the gas mixture is too high as evident on the smoke and smell of gas.
I believe this has something to do with the O2 sensor.

When the car finally heats up and reaches it's operating temperature the smoke & smell of gas is already gone.

 

[r-reg-sr]

never use accelerator on start up as its doing it for you automatically
if you have to use accelerator somethings wrong like what pollyp mentioned
worth getting locking fuel cap too,that'll stop pools of fools from dumping sand/sugar/fizzy cola fizzle down the guzzler.

 

[meteora]

i've already cleaned out the Idle Control Valve. I don't know how to check the coolant sensor.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[frank]

i've already cleaned out the Idle Control Valve. I don't know how to check the coolant sensor

you test it for resistance (i cant remember them, but the values have been posted a few times recently)

 

[r-reg-sr]

the ecu coolant sensor should read- 0.25 ohm @ 90c ------------------------------------------0.85 ohm @50c
------------------------------------------2.5 ohm @20c
temp gauge sensor should read------470-570 ohm @90c
------------------------------------------1.2-1.4k ohm @65c
------------------------------------------2.1 ohm @ 52c
got this info of a user here before

 

[Blue]

if it is the ECU coolant sensor ive replaced that recently when I had the reverse of my current problem of it starting with a flash of the key but cutting out when it was warm :suspect:. ill have a look though at the sensor but I doubt that it is the cause of the problem. It shouldn’t be the Idle control valve as it is a brand new TB fresh out of the box. ive even cleaned the crud off the contacts on the dizzy cap, to no avail. :down: i was going to test and probably replace the condensor on the Dizzy next and see where that gets me.

 

[r-reg-sr]

how olds the ignition switch?

 

[Blue]

its the original switch

 

[Blue]

finaly sorted this problem it turned out that my HT leads had perished and were giving a week spark so got a new pair and the car starts perfectly:grinning:

 

[meteora]

Me too. just sorted last week. Mine was due to Engine Coolant Temp Sensor. ECU returned fault code 13 - (Engine coolant temp sensor.)
Finally replaced it last week and now it runs a charm. Prior to the change I was running 1liter per 9kilometer. It was crazy.

Due to the sensor the micra was injecting too much fuel when cold. Thats why I was having problems starting the car. Prior to the change
the only way for me to start it is through clear start -> hold the accelator pedal to the floor as you turn the engine over be ready to remove when it starts.

 

[Scouse boy]

Mine too! I replaced spark plugs, HT leads, battery and worked fine for about a week and then started playing up again. Replaced distributor and has worked fine ever since The beast is back!!!!

 

[Dougyledds]

Im having this problem today!

 

[Romis]

Hi all, hoping you'll still get this years later!

I have a 2001 automatic k11. I have a problem starting at a specific time. It starts fine from cold and fine if I turn it off and nip in a shop quickly. If I come back to it 10 minutes later, it starts to splutter when starting. But if I come back to it 20-30 minutes later it won't start. Then back to cold again (min 1 hour), it starts fine. Can anyone help with what this might be please?