just wondering if i'm the only that experiences this (i'm positive i'm not the only one) but when it's cold in the morning and the car has been sitting for 10 hours+ and i go to drive (without a proper warmup) and i depress the gas half way, the car is REALLY lazy... it sputters here and there, gets spurts of gas, then all off a sudden it's like it was stockpiling the gas and the car accelerates with some pretty crazy force... any explanation for this? is it something to do with my carb/fuel lines, perhaps an adjustment? or is it just cause it's a 17 year old car and i need to suck it up lol .. thanks guys :grinning:
Cold K10
- Thread starter Burfy
- Start date
One of mine starts, runs then stops in these conditions (unless I pip the throttle over and over gently untill the choke sets properly)...fine after that
I suspect its your semi-auto choke not setting (latching) properly. (linkages on the carb need servicing?) I think mine does this too but having said that, I usually wait a good few moments before driving away while I go through the cockpit-drill. So i get my symptoms while checking.
Try a static warm up using the same semi-auto choke setting but with out driving away....does your engine stop too?
I suspect its your semi-auto choke not setting (latching) properly. (linkages on the carb need servicing?) I think mine does this too but having said that, I usually wait a good few moments before driving away while I go through the cockpit-drill. So i get my symptoms while checking.
Try a static warm up using the same semi-auto choke setting but with out driving away....does your engine stop too?
ok, i'll search around... the only problem is that i live in Canada, so finding a micra in the scrap yard is probably NOT gunna happen :glare: i'm kinda wondering if my car is wasting gas, cause wen it first starts up, i can put the pedal to the floor and it'll be at LEAST a second before it starts to rev, sometimes it stalls... so i dunno
Speedle
Ex. Club Member
Haha, I can get it started no problem (by pressing the gas at least twice) but it's just right afterwards... like everything is stiff too eh? clutch line, the actual shifter stick/putting it into gear... but once it's warmed up it's good to go... on top of that, what are signs that clutches are going, because whenever i shift into third, and my engine is spinning that fast, the car shudders when i ease the clutch in... it may just be my clutching technique considering i taught myself and i've only been driving stick-shift for 4 months now lol
Yeh my clutch did that when it was on its way out Burfy BUT no where near as much as the new clutch did when it was replaced. That was in my 1.0... might just be normal? If your careful with the clutch you can stop it from doing it I think.
On really cold mornings my steering column creaks and rattles.
On really cold mornings my steering column creaks and rattles.
yea, i know this isn't great for the clutch, but i've found that if i leave the gas down while shifting and let it slip a bit it prevents the shudder lol.. fortunately the only creak i have is in the front struts and they're getting replaced in a week and a half... and the only rattle i get is when i'm breaking 65mph
Courior
Fat ppl r harder 2 kidnap
What kinda weather have you got at the mo.. you say its cold.. HOW cold?? between 2-6C something can happen in the carb called carb iceing. Its when the water in the air freezes in the idle jet of the carb (its almost as thin as a hair) and blocks fuel getting in. when the engine is warm this warms the carb and the air around it melting the ice and everything is back to normal. This is mainly a problem on motorcycles but ive had it happen once or twice on my micra esp in cold damn conditions, or fog.
Been a while since I've been here haha... Couple updates of my findings, and a few more questions too! First, I figured out why my car was shuddering slightly whenever I shifted, it was lack of power from the engine... I got a new air filter,oil change and now I've added cold air intake, and it doesn't shudder anymore (yay!) However, now I'm having the problem of a fast idle when it's cold AND hot. No matter what the idle never drops below 2000 rpm... It's the biggest waste of gas ever and I'm getting annoyed with it frankly. So far I've taken the breather off the carb throat and played around with a bunch of linkages (cleaning and ensuring no binding is occurring) but it still won't do it. I only had to replace one vacuum line as it was cracked and disconnected. The rest look like they're in excellent condition. So far I've narrowed it down to 2 things. The first thing I'm guessing is that it's the spring that sits on the pivot of the accelerator arm. I believe it's lost it's consistency and so it's not pushing it all the way down to allow the proper choke. Well, actually I can almost guarantee that's the case since my car WILL idle at 800 rpm, however I need to physically push the accelerator arm all the way down to achieve that. The second thing is I'm guessing something is binding or something isn't properly set (and yes, the idle screw is set properly)..
I'm just teaching myself how a carb works right now, so unfortunately I don't know which parts are known to break down quicker than others. There's nothing wrong with the bimetal spring, and I've sprayed every possible part with carb cleaner (and I even took a toothbrush to it haha) and yet it still won't idle below 2000 rpm. So I'm guessing I have 2 options.. One is to try and make the spring that has been fatigued more taught and position it further down the arm to get better leverage to push it down. Or two, just replace the whole damn lump and get rid of the carb lol... It's getting about time to replace it anyways (~294000km on the clock, original engine)
Sorry for the long read, hope someone has some nice insights for me!
I'm just teaching myself how a carb works right now, so unfortunately I don't know which parts are known to break down quicker than others. There's nothing wrong with the bimetal spring, and I've sprayed every possible part with carb cleaner (and I even took a toothbrush to it haha) and yet it still won't idle below 2000 rpm. So I'm guessing I have 2 options.. One is to try and make the spring that has been fatigued more taught and position it further down the arm to get better leverage to push it down. Or two, just replace the whole damn lump and get rid of the carb lol... It's getting about time to replace it anyways (~294000km on the clock, original engine)
Sorry for the long read, hope someone has some nice insights for me!
After running the engine to full temp...give it a good blip in the throttle then stop the engine..take off the air filter cover and check that the choke plate is vertical.....
I was going to suggest that you have something electrical switched on like radiator fan or ventilation fan or side lights or rear screen heater or whatever.....this will deliberately increase idle speed...so check that everything is off here
but now im thinking; do you have enough free play in the accelerator peddle cable?
I was going to suggest that you have something electrical switched on like radiator fan or ventilation fan or side lights or rear screen heater or whatever.....this will deliberately increase idle speed...so check that everything is off here
but now im thinking; do you have enough free play in the accelerator peddle cable?
Yea it's not the choke plate... It's something to do with the accelerator arm... Today I took a hack saw and put a notch in the accelerator arm hoping that by stretching the spring further down the arm it would give it more leverage and push it down... It dropped my idle 200 rpm, but I'm still not satisfied with an 1800 rpm idle! When I say accelerator arm, are you familiar with what I'm talking about?
Charlotte001
Ex. Club Member
Hi have you got the De-icer set to summer when it's winter? also take the air box off and give the carb a good spraying with a good quality carb cleaner this will improve starting loads.
Charlotte
Charlotte
Wont make any difference. The car wont produce enough heat that quick to make a difference with starting problems.
