Clutch peddle very stiff.

Hi all!

Recently picked up a 2002 1.4L Micra - done a few little jobs on it already:
Coolant expansion tank had cracked, removed the toad immobiliser and changed the clutch cable as I thought that was my prob today!

The clutch peddle is still very stiff right at the bottom of the peddle, it goes into gear no problems, including reverse gear.

Clutch isn't slipping, as far as I can tell.

Cars only done 36k miles, from the paperwork given when I bought the car the clutch has already been changed at 12k miles in 2008 ?

Where the clutch cable hooks on the gearbox end is very stiff, when the cable was off I couldn't move by hand, and with the cable on it is squeaking very loudly. I've tried spraying it down with WD-40 with not much luck.

Anything I should be looking out for? Any help is appreciated, this is my first Micra (very different to the scoobys I'm used to) so not very knowledgeable on them!!

Many thanks
Nick :)
 
Hi Nick
If the cable is new and the pedal moves freely when it's disconnected the cable may be adjusted to tight, giving no free play and the clutch pressure plate being over exerted.
As a clutch was replaced at 12,000 miles could be a sign a previous owner rode the clutch or a lot of traffic driving this will cause the clutch to become heavy but not necessarily wearing the friction plate.
Another problem could be the friction centre plate may have not been centralised properly when the clutch was fitted and is binding on the gearbox input shaft.

Alex
 
Hi Nick
If the cable is new and the pedal moves freely when it's disconnected the cable may be adjusted to tight, giving no free play and the clutch pressure plate being over exerted.
As a clutch was replaced at 12,000 miles could be a sign a previous owner rode the clutch or a lot of traffic driving this will cause the clutch to become heavy but not necessarily wearing the friction plate.
Another problem could be the friction centre plate may have not been centralised properly when the clutch was fitted and is binding on the gearbox input shaft.

Alex
Ok thanks mate, Ill do a bit more digging around the car today and try to adjust the cable slightly!
The arm that the cable hooks on gearbox side is where the main squeak noise is coming from, how would I fix that outside of WD-40?
 
Hi Nick
If the cable is new and the pedal moves freely when it's disconnected the cable may be adjusted to tight, giving no free play and the clutch pressure plate being over exerted.
As a clutch was replaced at 12,000 miles could be a sign a previous owner rode the clutch or a lot of traffic driving this will cause the clutch to become heavy but not necessarily wearing the friction plate.
Another problem could be the friction centre plate may have not been centralised properly when the clutch was fitted and is binding on the gearbox input shaft.

Alex
The thumbscrew on the cable is incredibly tight, the old one was also ridiculously tight.

Am I missing a trick with this? The videos I've seen look very easy to adjust the thumb wheel?!?
 

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Here is a link that may help you. There are several topics on this within the forum.
Hope these help.

 
The thumbscrew on the cable is incredibly tight, the old one was also ridiculously tight.

Am I missing a trick with this? The videos I've seen look very easy to adjust the thumb wheel?!?


Check the clutch operating arm free movement when clutch pedal is fully pressed down & released. repeatedly.

Lube the squeaking clutch operating arm pivot point shaft.

Video the above clutch operating arm range of movement for its assessment by “MSC experts” as I suspect the release pressure plate may be distorted, cracked or partly seized as was implied by Twincam Alex.

Good luck & happy fault finding.
 
Check the clutch operating arm free movement when clutch pedal is fully pressed down & released. repeatedly.

Lube the squeaking clutch operating arm pivot point shaft.

Video the above clutch operating arm range of movement for its assessment by “MSC experts” as I suspect the release pressure plate may be distorted, cracked or partly seized as was implied by Twincam Alex.

Good luck & happy fault finding.
Sort of leaning towards this theory, you cannot move the operating arm whatsoever when the clutch is depressed :/

I'll try get a video tomorrow as its dark now..

Cheers
 
Two vids I got today, the clutch is fully depressed on the video of the engine bay.

Car now vibrates a lot on idle both clutch in and out, disappears when I give it revs.
Don't know how to attach mp4 videos so had to do it like that sorry!!

Pedal end
Gearbox end
 
Two vids I got today, the clutch is fully depressed on the video of the engine bay.

Car now vibrates a lot on idle both clutch in and out, disappears when I give it revs.
Don't know how to attach mp4 videos so had to do it like that sorry!!

Pedal end
Gearbox end

The videos are good enough & explain better than a thousand words to confirm the sound of the pedal box straining protesting under the excess tension stress with a lack of any slack in the cable adjustment but more importantly a lack corresponding movement in the clutch release operating arm, release bearing or release pressure plate.

Good luck with the options.
 
The videos are good enough & explain better than a thousand words to confirm the sound of the pedal box straining protesting under the excess tension stress with a lack of any slack in the cable adjustment but more importantly a lack corresponding movement in the clutch release operating arm, release bearing or release pressure plate.

Good luck with the options.
I'll loosen the cable asap then and hope it was that, I think it's more likely to be pressure plate/release bearing though, the old + new cable where the exact same length and the old cable was right on the end of the thread!

Thanks for the reply - much appreciated
 
I'll loosen the cable asap then and hope it was that, I think it's more likely to be pressure plate/release bearing though, the old + new cable where the exact same length and the old cable was right on the end of the thread!

Thanks for the reply - much appreciated


The clutch cable has been set up very tight with little or no free play in order to get the clutch to disengage enough to enable smooth gear changes.

Loosening the cable a little to achieve normal free play will not reduce clutch operation stiffness.

Lubricating the clutch operating arm & the pedal box clutch pedal pivot points may achieve marginal reduced operational noise & stiffness.

I would now be inclined to get quotes from local independent cash in hand mechanics to replace the clutch while it remains drivable in order to consider the options going forward.

Good luck.
 
I reckon the clutch arm that goes through the gearbox will be seized in the bushes, Gear box out job I reckon.
If the cable is disconnected from gearbox end the arm still stiff or wont move defo seized.
 
The clutch cable has been set up very tight with little or no free play in order to get the clutch to disengage enough to enable smooth gear changes.

Loosening the cable a little to achieve normal free play will not reduce clutch operation stiffness.

Lubricating the clutch operating arm & the pedal box clutch pedal pivot points may achieve marginal reduced operational noise & stiffness.

I would now be inclined to get quotes from local independent cash in hand mechanics to replace the clutch while it remains drivable in order to consider the options going forward.

Good luck.
The Micra is a 2nd car/project so I'll give the clutch a go myself, did most of the work myself on my Subaru so want to get stuck into the Micra!
 
I reckon the clutch arm that goes through the gearbox will be seized in the bushes, Gear box out job I reckon.
If the cable is disconnected from gearbox end the arm still stiff or wont move defo seized.
The arm was still very stiff with no cable connected, do you happen to know a part number I can search for to order one? While it's all coming off I might as well replace it.
 
It been a long time since I worked on one, I do not believe you will need parts just remove gearbox then remove the clutch arm and spindle from the bell housing. I believe it uses plastic bushes. What happens is the alloy corrodes and exspands and the shaft rust within the bush. Just strip down and clean the shaft with emery cloth. Clean the bores where the bushes go in the bellhousing, lightly grease and reassemble. At worst you might break the plastic bushes and need to get replacements.. Hope this helps
 
Just looking into various kits now, any brands I should be hard avoiding?

Cheers
I've had LUK fitted in other vehicles and they have been fine.
Looking through Eurocarparts I saw listings for 180mm & 190mm diameter clutches, which may mean removing yours before purchasing a new one.
 
I've been trying to get the same luk clutch for months. The uk importer recons it will be the middle of this month but am not holding my breath. Looking for a really light clutch alternative but no one seems to know. Oh well, up wards and onwards.
 
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