Clutch on the way out?

CMF_Bishop

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
My clutch is getting super annoying, I was told it was replaced when I bought the car, I'm thinking/guessing maybe they just put a new disk in and nothing else.

Symptoms right now, for some time I get a noise on start up, which goes away when I push in the clutch, this has been happening for ages now.

But more recently, it's gotten harder pedal wise, and now has like a slip to grab happening when your trying to smoothly engage it off the line, so taking off slowly and it's smoothly engaging, then will sort of give a little slip/thump rather than that final bit of grab.

I can't get it to slip as such, I'm up a long set of hills, and under load once engaged it seems fine, but it's just a pain in traffic now, cable feels shagged as well, doing some adjustment I found the cable seems overly stretched so as to make getting the right take up without the cable being loose hard, and the cable itself feels not so smooth, but that is hard to tell with the other issue.

Right now I just don't want to spend a heap of money, so does anyone know if the CI (Clutch Industries) kits on ebay and other places are alright quality?.
 

CMF_Greo

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Any clutch is pretty cheap (<$100) anyway, its the labour that will cost heaps.
Make sure u change the rear main while ur in there too.
The noise might be a input bearing? Or just the clutch being old and haggard.
 

CMF_sikK11

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Yep Greo is on the money. That noise is tue input shaft bearing in your gearbox. Not to be mistaken for your throw out bearing on the clutch fork. That noise is there when the clutch is pushed in. So yours is definitely the input bearing. As for your clutch buy a new clutch kit so you get pressure plate and bearing also. Then get the rear main seal as well. It's only another 3-4 dollars.

Do it once do it right.

Search for how to change it and you will find several threads about removing the box and changing clutches. Good luck
 

CMF_Bishop

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
$119 seems ok for an Exedy, though are we talking one of the HD models or their OEM replacment?.

kovert did you x2 the CI clutch or the flywheel machining?, I was thinking of trying to pick up a used flywheel so I can get that pre-done before I need to do the clutch...
 

CMF_Bishop

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Oh and on the note related to scoring a used flywheel, if you have one off a wreck in Brisbane, shoot me a message, I'd like to get that done long before I touch the clutch.

And yeah, given I do know a machine shop or two, I'd probably get a small chunk taken off it before using it, given your already getting it machined.
 

CMF_Bishop

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Great (not), I keep getting caught in heavy traffic, and the feel of my clutch is now rapidly deteriorating, feels worse than ever, so looks like I'll have to do it within the next couple of weeks.
 

CMF_Bishop

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Ouch!, I'm not all that sure I feel up to doing my own clutch work, so I got a quote from a place, with me supplying the clutch and oil, they still want $600 to do it, makes me remember why I have been doing my own mechanical work for many years...
 

CMF_Bishop

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Delays suck, though clutch kit has been ordered and on it's way.

Interesting things I have noticed though, bad clutch could be bad for a different reason, been replacing my thermostat and about to change oil, noticed a touch of oil on the lower part of the engine where the gearbox joins, was not there last time I looked, but clutch is engaging worse now, so I'm think rear main seal and some oil contamination.

Does not explain why the pedal feels so awful, though that could be a shagged cable or something dry.

A friend bumping into another friend recently though, means I'm thinking almost for sure I'll get a few kg's shaved off the flywheel, still know at least two people who run machine shops, so I'm bound to get a good deal in there somewhere.

Someone mentioned a bearing in the gearbox?, how hard is it to replace said bearing?, saw the rear engine main seal looks ok to do, this bearing not as sure about, can't find details?.
 

CMF_Rudy

» CMF Member
is ur gearbox noisy, otherwise if it aint broke dont fix it, sounds like u got a wet clutch, rear main seal leaking. drain gearbox through driveshaft first to check if oil level is above the seals, if u have a full belly of oil u probably hav a good box, if not replace gearbox seals, crack the fill plug before replacing box as these can be stuck good
 

CMF_Bishop

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Gearbox seems fine to me, it's not noisy that I can tell, a previous post suggested a bearing from a noise when the pedal is in, but that noise happens at a cold start and I said originally it goes away when you push in the clutch, so I figured clutch not box.

Only thing I'm likely to do is change to a different fluid when I do the clutch, read elsewhere Penrite Trans 75 gives a nicer feel than the 80 weight stuff typical in some FWD boxes.

Simply for the sake of it though, I'll likely get a rear main seal, and the two drive shaft seals, though does anyone know cheapest source for the rear main seal and others?, I may try Bursons tomorrow...
 

CMF_Bishop

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Wow, dropped into Burson Auto Parts simply cause it was right next door to where I was going this afternoon, they had the rear main in stock, $9.45, was expecting to pay more than that so I'm stoked.

Getting out of this cheapish so far, clutch kit was only $112 delivered, though this car is failing everywhere on me right now, has some noticeable CV clicking on the way home today, good thing a place on the south side has fill replacement shafts for $100 per side, full suspension build will follow that...

 

CMF_Bishop

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Who is using what gearbox oil in the Micra?.

Found some old posts with people saying VMX80 was the go, then quite a few comments after saying not to use it. LOL

Don't know what the heck is in mine now, but the shift sucks when stone cold, stock fill is 80w/90 but I noticed even the handbook says you can use a 75w/90, which I'd be more inclined to use with the cold shift annoyance.

Right now I'm thinking Penrite cause they make one of the few 75w/90's around, the Transaxle 75, not all that cheap though considering it only comes in 2.5L bottles...

Edit: The Penrite is looking hard to get these days around here, and with the bottle sizes twice the price, though I'm loathe to touch a Nulon product, I hear there oils are ok, and they do a 75w/90 that seems available everywhere...
 
Back
Top