Changing AT Gearbox Fluid - Micra k12 1.2 2004

[m4sta]

Hi everyone.
I have a little bit of a problem with my wife's micra.
She owned the car for about 6months and from the very 1st day there was a few things that worried me.
When changing from N to D there is a noticable jerk and when driving and the gearbox is on 1st gear it always revs very high and then when it's changing to 2nd it is very harsh change, like a kick in the back. All other gear changes are smooth and hardly noticable. Just from N to D and 1 to 2 are very harsh and jerky.

I don't know when and if ever was the gearbox fluid changed so I decided to do it just in case. I used Millers Oils Millermatic ATF SPIII-WS. But that's not the problem.

The real problem is that everywhere I checked it said that gearbox oil capacity is approx 7.7l. When I drained the oil I got only 3l?!?! And then when I refilled I've put in 4l and it was full on the scale on the stick. I did run the engine idling for 5min, checked the oil level again and nothing has changed. I took it for a litlle ride and oil level OK after that. I did warm up the fluid befor draining too.

Now the jerk when changin from N to D is half less harsh but from 1 to 2 still the same.

Can someone tell me why did I only get so much oil from gearbox and what can be possible cause of it? Also what else can I do to fix the jerky gearbox without spending fortune?

Thank You and sorry for such a long post!

 

[frank]

Did you run the engine while it was draining ?

 

[m4sta]

No I didn't. Nowhere in any manual it said to run it while draining. Is that bad?

 

[frank]

No I didn't. Nowhere in any manual it said to run it while draining. Is that bad?

i think you have to run some auto,s to empty the torque converter and galleries

 

[m4sta]

Oh. To be honest I thought about running the engine while it was draining but I didn't want to damage the gearbox.

 

[Mika The Finn]

On my Harley gear linkage ball joint needs to be lubricated once in a while in order to easily find neutral. And same problem with in shifter of Camaro. Here in The Land of The Finns, also known as Fin(e)land, our outside temperatures varies between -30 to +30C. That makes function of vehicle mechanics sometimes a bit challenging.
I don't know automatic transmission of Nissan, what kind of cables/linkage is from shifter to transmission. Little bit of lubrication might help...?
Too much of transmission fluid is not good for shifting. Fluid capacity of Camaro transmission is 14 liters and in every fluid change mechanic gets about half of it out.

 

[plmval]

Hi everyone.
I have a little bit of a problem with my wife's micra.
She owned the car for about 6months and from the very 1st day there was a few things that worried me.
When changing from N to D there is a noticable jerk and when driving and the gearbox is on 1st gear it always revs very high and then when it's changing to 2nd it is very harsh change, like a kick in the back. All other gear changes are smooth and hardly noticable. Just from N to D and 1 to 2 are very harsh and jerky.

I don't know when and if ever was the gearbox fluid changed so I decided to do it just in case. I used Millers Oils Millermatic ATF SPIII-WS. But that's not the problem.

The real problem is that everywhere I checked it said that gearbox oil capacity is approx 7.7l. When I drained the oil I got only 3l?!?! And then when I refilled I've put in 4l and it was full on the scale on the stick. I did run the engine idling for 5min, checked the oil level again and nothing has changed. I took it for a litlle ride and oil level OK after that. I did warm up the fluid befor draining too.

Now the jerk when changin from N to D is half less harsh but from 1 to 2 still the same.

Can someone tell me why did I only get so much oil from gearbox and what can be possible cause of it? Also what else can I do to fix the jerky gearbox without spending fortune?

Thank You and sorry for such a long post!

“from N to D there is a noticeable jerk and when driving and the gearbox is on 1st gear it always revs very high and then when it's changing to 2nd it is very harsh change, like a kick in the back”

Simply draining the ATF you will only get out the ATF that was sitting in the transmission oil pan and not the majority which is in the oil galley circuits. Controlled pumped dialysis of the ATF is required to achieve a near complete ATF change.

However your description of delayed engagement revs rising and then jerking changes suggests that the problem is much more fundamental than simply changing ATF.

Suggest you take it for professional assessment by an automatic transmission specialist. Plenty of info available if you do your own research, Google “automatic transmission faults/failures”

Also search tutorial videos on YouTube "automatic transmission faults"

Good luck with that! References;

http://vaguevagaries.blogspot.co.uk/2010/02/replacing-electromagnetic-clutch.html

http://www.car4play.com/forum/post/index.htm?t=1625

 

[Master tech]

Drain out your 3 litres. Fill up with 3 liters. Run engine and shift through every gear selection with foot on break and handbrake on. Hold it in every selection for 5 seconds. Then turn off engine. Drain your gear oil again and fill with new the same measurement. Repeat until gear oil is same colour as whats going in.

What colour was the oil and did it smell burnt ?