Car cut out while driving and wont start.... 4 weeks later still no0one can provide solution

[CMF_h2ypr]

Hey there all.

Im new to this forum, but the advice on here seems to be very good and i have checked nearly every thread about micras not starting but none of them have sorted this problem.

Its my sisters car. She was driving to a friends house and parked up. He needed his car out so 5 mins later she starts the car, and reverses it back, but it cuts out mid reverse. She tries to start it again and it wont start. Car is recovered home and no0one has managed to resolve the problem. I have checked all the fuses inside and outside the car, i can hear the fuel pump priming and there is a spark from the plugs etc. The engine check light is flashing constantly when turning on the ignition.

The only thing i havent tried yet, is to replace the crankshaft sensor. This was suggested by a mechanic friend, who said the symptoms sound like that could cause it.

Its a 1996 micra 1.0 16v.

Ross

 

[CMF_h2ypr]

Just phoned nissan to order one and this model doesnt have one!!

Oh man, what could it be?

Ross

 

[CMF_jay85]

hey have you tried to extract any DTC codes out of the ecu??

 

[CMF_h2ypr]

I've tried a guide i saw somewhere but cant seem to get any change in flashing?

ross

 

[CMF_Yom]

Check the NATS system if so equipped.

 

[CMF_h2ypr]

The car starts and cuts out aswell. Just checked the air filter, and the other filter aswell. Tried to start without filter and no luck.

Reheated the points on the thottle body and still no luck....

Anyone else got any ideas? Also, where does the ecu show the error codes? I have read the guide to connect the 2 pins together, but dont know where to look for the flashes.

Ross

 

[CMF_fred]

dirty injectors?

 

[CMF_nz_aj]

It's pointless speculating until you've got the error code(s)
Take the kick panel off the centre tunnel beside your clutch foot & on the other side. You'll see your computer in the middle.
Unbolt the computer from the car, there'll be enough cable to get it out the passenger side.
Take the top off so you can see the 'diagnostic mode selector' trimpot rather than trying to turn it through the access hole.
Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine.
Turn the pot fully clockwise. Wait at least 2 seconds, then turn pot fully counter clock-wise.
The ECU is now in Diagnostics MODE II
Read the codes flashing from the check engine light. Long flash is first digit, short flash is 2nd digit, see the codes below.
To exit MODE II, turn pot fully clock-wise. Wait at least 2 seconds, then turn the potentiometer fully counter clock-wise, or...
Start engine with the ECU in MODE II to enter MODE II - Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2) Monitor . The ECU is now monitoring the O2 sensor. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature, then run at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes. Check that the check engine light blinks more than 5 times every 10 seconds at 2000 rpm. NOTE: Light indicates signal from sensor to ecu. ON=rich, Off=lean. Blinking light means system is constantly adjusting between lean and rich which is normal. Any other indication would be abnormal and require further investigation. The switched on/off is 'closed loop', while a constant on or off is 'open loop' 11. To exit MODE II - Heated Oxygen Sensor Monitor, turn the potentiometer fully counter clock-wise and stop the engine.

codes
11: crank angle sensor circuit
12*: air flow meter circuit
13*: engine coolant temp. sensor circuit
14*: vehicle speed sensor circuit
21: ignition signal circuit
26*: boost pressure sensor
31*: ECU
32*: EGR function
33*: exhaust gas sensor circuit (left)
34: detonation sensor circuit
35*: exhaust gas temp. sensor circuit
42: fuel temp. sensor circuit
43*: throttle position sensor circuit
45*: injector leak
51*: injector circuit
53*: exhaust gas sensor circuit (right)
54: signal circuit from A/T control to ECU
55: NO malfunctions in the above

Trouble Code: Detected Items: Malfunction Caused By: Check::
11* Camshaft Angle Sensor circuit (CAS) Either 1° or 120° signal is not entered for the first few seconds of engine cranking. Either 1° or 120° signal is not input often enough while the engine speed is higher then the specified RPM. Harness and connector (if harness and connector are OK, CAS might be bad)
12 Mass Air-Flow Sensor circuit (MAS) The MAS sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector (if harness and connector are OK, MAS might be bad)
13 Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor The Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor
14 Speed Sensor circuit The Speed Sensor circuit is open or shorted. Harness and connector Speed Sensor switch (reed switch)
21* Ignition signal circuit The ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running. Harness and connector Power Transistor Unit
26 Boost Pressure sensor (Turbo models) The boost pressure sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector Boost pressure leaks Boost pressure sensor
31 ECU ECU calculation function is failing Replace ECU
32 EGR function EGR valve does not operate (valve spring does not lift) EGR valve EGRC-solenoid valve
33 O2 Sensor (left side) The O2 Sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector O2 sensor Fuel pressure Injectors Intake air leaks
34 Detonation Sensor circuit The detonation sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector Detonation sensor
35 EGR Temp. Sensor The EGR Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector EGR temp. sensor
42 Fuel Temp Sensor circuit The Fuel Temp. Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector Fuel temp. sensor
43 Throttle Position Sensor circuit The Throttle Position Sensor circuit is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector Throttle position sensor
45 Injector leak Fuel leaks from the injectors Injectors
51 Injector circuit The injector circuit is open Harness and connector Injectors
53 O2 Sensor (right side) The O2 Sensor is open or shorted (abnormally high or low voltage is registered). Harness and connector O2 sensor Fuel pressure Injectors Intake air leaks
54 Signal circuit from the automatic transmission (A/T) (A/T models only)

 

[CMF_YNWA]

h2ypr WROTE:

"Hey there all.

Im new to this forum, but the advice on here seems to be very good and i have checked nearly every thread about micras not starting but none of them have sorted this problem.

Its my sisters car. She was driving to a friends house and parked up. He needed his car out so 5 mins later she starts the car, and reverses it back, but it cuts out mid reverse. She tries to start it again and it wont start. Car is recovered home and no0one has managed to resolve the problem. I have checked all the fuses inside and outside the car, i can hear the fuel pump priming and there is a spark from the plugs etc. The engine check light is flashing constantly when turning on the ignition.

The only thing i havent tried yet, is to replace the crankshaft sensor. This was suggested by a mechanic friend, who said the symptoms sound like that could cause it.

Its a 1996 micra 1.0 16v.

Ross

Hi Ross,

I had a similar problem (though intermittent at first) with my 1996 Micra 1.3 GX. Turned out that it was corrosion to the fuse for the NATS immobiliser (the 10 amp blade fuse in the engine bay fuse box next to the left hand headlamp - in the position shown as INJ on the fuse box cover diagram). A year later, the problem recurred but this time it was corrosion (in our scabby British weather) to the connectors (in the bottom of the fuse box) for that particular fuse. As the fuses are all OK, this may well be the problem in your sister's car. I got mine fixed by a mobile autoelectrician who replaced the faulty fuse connector with an in-line fuse holder in ca. 30 minutes of labour.

Good luck,

Aidan (YNWA !)

P.S. Incidentally, the autoelectrician also did the same fix on my left-hand headlamp fuse which I'd previously had to solder back in after it had overheated in a Chernobyl-style meltdown (a common Micra fault along with overheating and consequent distortion and poor contact of the connectors to the headlamps themselves).