Boot Lock Central Lock Issue

[sjay]

Hi read lots of threads on K12 boot locks... but they all seem to describe fastener problems not central lock problems.

Here's my tests (writing it down for sanity)

1. Boot switch (common fault) - checked and it works - tick! - shame, wish it was this one lol
2. Boot Fastening Mechanism - took out and tested with a 9V battery... - yup the motor servo works and unlocks correctly - tick
3. Tested the wiring. The power to the switch is live & when the switch is pressed it sends the power to lock the lock just doesn't respond (but I know it (should) work cos I tested it with a battery!!)

Just once when I refitted the lock it worked with the boot button...

Could it be a central locking issue. Does the central locking deactivate the servo that flips the clasp open?

There are 4 wires going into the Boot clasp mechanism. 2 operate the servo to unclasp the mechanism. I assume the other 2 are the 'lock' i.e. disables the servo from operating the clasp...

I can't find any threads or videos describing the electronic central locking mechanism. Does the electric locking disable the clasp servo? is that the issue?

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[Mach1]

Take off the boot wiring gaiter in the top corner of the boot when rear hatch is open, wiring there can become brittle and break internally,and cause ever total voltage failure or intermitent faults. Its common to get this, I suffered the same checked all, and it was the wiring that came out of the car chassis and into the hatch lid over the years this opening and closing takes its toll on the wiring.

 

[Deleted member 31521]

I had a problem with the button to open the trunk or boot.
It had a very long delay.
I changed out the switch mechanism and also checked the above wiring to find a slight problem of wires that had been taped together from previous issue before getting the vehicle.
I just made sure the wires that had been taped up were isolated better and that they were sealed from the elements.
This seemed to work for me.
The only problem I encountered after that was my number plate light later developed a problem but this was probably caused by water getting inside the reflector.
The reflector had a tab broken at the left side and this was enough to cause an mot fail.
The garage changed this for me with a genuine part and the led that had been installed was binned.
I only noticed the Led recently but knew that could be a problem since it seemed to be the only Led bulb fitted.

 

[Brinzb]

Check if the boot light bulb is working when boot open and when boot is closed the light is off. I had a locking issue and found it to be the boot light bulb fused. I believe it's part of the circuit for keyless entry system. Worth a check. Good luck.

 

[Not_Anumber]

Contrary to the various youtube videos I couldnt find the manual release on the latch. Where there was supposed to be a white plastic lever mine appeared to be a one piece solid moulding with no release lever . It took a while to realise mine just had a plastic cover hiding the release, easy enough to prise off thankfully. Quite difficult to see last night in the dark especially as i had to work with the seat back jammed in place. .

Once the boot was open I checked the latch operated ok with a 9 volt battery then found the boot switch had failed. Ive ordered a 6mm waterproof microswitch to make a lasting repair but until that arrives I managed to squeeze a reset switch from an old PC into the housing. A pushbutton wired in parrallel, located at the top of the tailgate plastic trim will now make it easier to open from inside in the event the external microswitch fails again. It beats me really why Nissan didnt put a tailgate release button on the dash next to the levers for the fuel flap and bonnet.