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could just be bushes settling but take it back, there a few things it could be that need correcting.

the USB sockets are upside down. :) I've been eyeing up that head unit, how is it? does it work ok with the steering wheel input?

Unloaded bearing will sound and spin just fine. Once loaded it can run rough. 1.4 has 2 belts, so you can run without it at least. Given its intermittent though I'd check your alternator to. My 1600 is currently doing it on over run, I will be doing the tensioner this weekend, if that...

Did you do the tensioner?

bias. sprayed from the other direction. fairly common sadly, not all colours show it.

Looks good. spraying outside is always a risk, but it looks like you got away with it. you'll do the bumper, then think "oh, that side panel looks a bit flat" then you'll do that and think "oh that door looks a bit flat" and so on and so on, till you reach the other side panel and it turns out...

not sure how I've made another year, but I have. :) nothing major for this year. MOT flew through. I did replace the front discs and pads and service the calipers, along with new shoes and springs in the rear. had to do a ball joint, but meh. also did the subframe front mounts while I was...

yes. spray grease on all moving joints and the locking mechanism. the hydraulic system is closed loop, don't touch it unless it leaks, there is a fluid check, but it's involved and could lead to other issues. also worth cleaning out all the seal drains (front and rear pillar) on a routine...

Drive the pants off it for a few days before the MOT, the Cat wants to get really really hot to clear the coke deposits sat on the plates. I guess for 15 quid it can't do more harm than good, so might as well chuck it through, but don't expect miracles.

1. yes, get it fixed, for the cost, do both sides and change the entire control arm not just the ball joints. Think I paid 40 quid a side last time. A garage will charge you for their time, pulling the control arm off to get it in a press is going to take longer than just swapping it out. so...

within reason yep agree completely. cabin loom is almost all the same across all versions, although there are some minor changes to the SR160 loom and obviously the CC loom. engine loom, same from at the bulk head but different by engine, which you'd expect. they also overlay additional looms...

with you on that, stock speakers are shocking, a set of cheap as chips JBL or similar will see it sound considerable better. just match the impedance.

it's a breather you are spot on. I think it goes to a cap and then bolts to the bulk head or similar. a quick check of the manual, I can only find one mention of it and it's a crap image. cable tie it out the way somewhere. :)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334202821280?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D273572%26meid%3Da40d616ec7c0468d9a557a837d684beb%26pid%3D101949%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D334202821280%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2WithMLR...

it's your stock ones but they need to be modified. see above.

7" in original nissan unit. you can get a 9" on ali express, it changes the vents.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6755629

the frame will also be buckled, new door is the only cost effective solution for that as Coffee rightly says. Stop trying all the viral tiktok hacks that don't really work and buy a new door from the scrappy. If we were talking about a 40-50 year old classic I'd be telling you how to pull the...

I'll upload them to thingyverse later and send you a link. can't remember if I had to slightly modify them in the real world once printed or not, but it'll get you close enough.

upper panel just unclips but it's awkward round the edges and needs the pillar trim removed. have a google for a service manual, there's a few out thee for free, the image I posted is from one