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looks good matey, one thing tho, when its all up and running, get a wirebrush round the engine bay and paint lol

i think i threw my jig away. ill look at home tonight tho

what type of welder and what for? whats your budget?

check back through my threads, ive covered this a few times when ive done my own,

do you dtill need some, i think i have my old ones left, ill have a look tonight if i remember

i 'fixed' a friends micra with this fault, the wire was broken as it goes from the boot lid into the car, i just threaded a new wire in and it was sorted

any bolt place should do them, might not be an exact replacement but aslong as the length is same or longer and the diameter is right it'll be fine.

the very late SLX's had the rev counter and digi clock fitted just like the super s did, they are standard fit

thats why you turn it by hand a few times just in case!!

my old sr used to do that, did it 3 times, had to get it reset every time, just happened for no reason. where in chesterfield are you mate?

sorry sr20*

a would suggest that most 2r20 engined cars (non turbo ones obv) share similar wiring engine wise

yeah ive seen it, but what a few people do what ive seen is, build a completely sealed box and put the carbs and everything into it, not just a plenum, that way all of the carbs is under the same pressure that way you dont get any leakage in the carbs, you will still need a really low boost...

you could make my type of regulator the rising type by putting a vacuum (or boost) operating valve in the return to tank then when the boost rises so will the fule pressure, but im not convinced it will work as the carbs arent made for positive pressure only negative

i think your going to struggle matey, hence why turbo carbs are built differently to normal ones, you will end up putting the carbs in a sealed box and charging the box

there is/was the k11 wiring diagrams around somewhere bioth pre and post NATS, i used to have them but have lost them,

good :)

it depends how good you are at wiring and understanding electrical drawings,

i made a very crude regulator, which works the same way as the stock mechanical fuel pump built in one but it was adjustable, basically imagine a tee piece that is orientated like a tee the left hand pipe is the feed from the pump, the bottom pipe is the return to the tank, now the right hand...

there is a drain plug in the tank if you can jack it up? or take the fuel pipe off the filter under the bonnet and attach your hose and pump to it, or lift up the back seat take the flap off and get direct access into the tank or take something sharp to the tank and bust a hole in it