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There is probably a lip at the top of the bores where the top ring doesn't reach the top of the bore which will allow you to roughly assess wear, after that I'd get a machinist to check size, taper, and concentricity if these are out of spec then a bore and hone, if not a hone and you could...

They would be compatible it'd say, it's the same block, head, and radiator(I think) so I can't see a reason for them to be different. We don't get cg10s here so others might confirm this.

You may be able to prove your micra compiles with the ULEZ emmisions requirements, see this thread, thanks to DanDan for going to the effort. https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/london-ultra-low-emissions-zone-ulez.70913/post-789789

Some of the guys swapping cg's into minis use the same manifold as thier starting point.

It's driven from the crank, you can get parts but afaik they don't generally fail, you can check clearances and for wear or gouging, to get at it is a bit of a mission, removing timing cover and timing chain if I remember correctly. What is your problem?

I went for ngk 6's the standard is 5's I saw a post from Ed at Fusion suggesting 6 or 7 for a NA build.

I'd hazard a guess and say yes you should get it retuned, by changing the trumpets for longer ones you are changing the pulse tuning to lower in the rev range, Alpha N tune is unable to realise this and will assume the airflow it had previously with the shorter trumpets, how big a difference it...

Heating the rod small end not the piston?

Maybe with an example piston?

We made up a pin that locates in the centre of the gudgeon pin, on the other side a piece that supports the side of the piston but is hollow to allow the gudgeon pin to come out.

Is it worth going one range cooler (more heat dissipation) for a NA cg13de with higher compression (cg10 flat top pistons) and 774 cams? Or just see how the standard plugs go?

If you go here, http://nissan4u.com/parts/info/807006F611/ This is the part no for the electric window regulator, if you scroll down it shows the vehicles this part is also used for, listed are 5 door models as well, this would suggest the answer is yes.

It stops steam coming out your radiator, it doesn't stop it going pop, the engine is still running hot, if you consider steam out your bonnet as a warning to stop evans means you're ignoring that warning. It's your car not mine so use what you like.

It might be worth giving it a wash, use a scrubbing brush and a bucket of warm soapy water and a clip to hold the seat belt out / stop it retracting and scrub away, often they are stiff because of the gunk in the webbing making it less flexible and harder to retract.

This guy has done about 6 videos on why evans doesn't work and why he thinks it's a scam, to my mind if you are getting to that high a temperature that your coolant boils there's something wrong with your cooling system, fix that not the water in your cooling system.

Swapping just the diff won't change much assuming it's a standard diff, I assume you want the shorter ratio for more rpm. The crownwheel would swap but it's paired to a gear that's integrated into the gearbox layshaft so would need to be changed as well. You could see if the bell housing side of...

I doubt it, imo the lighter rotating mass would only make a difference to steering at speed which isn't when you typically need power steering. On the other hand trying to keep the offset reasonable so that the scrub radius is close to zero might make the steering lighter, were there different...

Most gauges and thier sensors want a constant voltage, if the alternator isn't supplying this they could act up, there's replaceable brushes and voltage regulator on most alternators or you might be able to swap with a known working alternator or brushes / voltage regulator.

I'm wondering if it might be related to the lines running to the carbon canister, there's a valve on the gearbox end of the head that closes once hot, it might be a cause to your child start issues.

That's a gearbox breather, goes up but then connects no where so it doesn't suck in water. There's a suction line goes from the throttle body to a valve on the gearbox end of the head that opens once hot, other end should be connected to the carbon canister might produce your symptoms.