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there are a few different designs of cam cover on k11,s, most have the bonded in seals. where is yours leaking ?

double post

my tps wires are green black/white and blue, and no extra plug can you post a pic up ?

bending the gearchange rod will bring the gearknob backwards bishop (as will bending the stick eh) i opted for the easier "slide the plastic ball up" method personally, the buzz that you get from the ebay ones would drive me up the wall

yes the ecu controls it mate, does the car run ok ?

the pump should only run for about 5 secs niilo, then the ecu cuts it off if there is no cam sensor signal

aye, its a throttle body "heating" circuit tho eh :) the core itself will only reach 200ish deg, any more than that will boil the oil inside it and melt the oil pipes

no, out of the bottom of the rad TM, and most turbo cars do probably feed the turbo with heated coolant, in order to try and keep it at 100deg max (where the turbine end probably reaches 2-300) but if you can keep the compressor end at near ambient temp, then that is preferable to maintaining...

those are both outflow pipes tho surely ? (the heater feed, and the system return if the stat is closed) if you feed the turbo from an engine outlet/downstream pipe, you will be heating the turbo core to 100deg c effectively feeding it from the coldside from the rad would be better, but you...

sounds good :) these things are bulletproof at those levels, i doubt if half a bar will create much heat tbh, your summer ambient temps are a big worry tho eh !

here,s the back of the heatsink, my compressor temp reaches 50 deg 5 mins after turning the engine off (the heat from the turbine travels across the core eh) and it reaches 30 to 40deg in heavy traffic too, but while moving its running at near enough ambient temps. what boost level will you be...

you probably need the water lines on a scoob or whatever, if the turbo is confined in a tight corner with no airflow eh, but you are dumping a lot of exh mani heat into the rad tho. mine has a flange ally welded to the compressor housing, and a big ally heatsink bolted to it, and that helps with...

those 2 pipes go to the carbon canister purge valve TM, so they only see a venturi vacuum (near the throttleplate, ie, not manifold vacuum) you can link all of your pipes to a log if you want, boostgauge/bov/fuel-reg/actuator etc (or else tee into any of those) and the heater hoses will have no...

the ignition switches tend to fail, but i guess the dash lights would show if it did ? and the ecu relay is near the battery, so you would,nt hear that click from the cabin

they,ll cope ok with the help of a SAFC or whatever shawn

this one is cheap :) http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/detailed-k11-manual-for-download.55421/

i think the stampings are just factory codings, a google image search on "RS5F31V" or 32 should bring up loads of pic.s to compare yours against

yeh

i diy mine by lining up the front and rear wheels, it should be done with tracking gauges really tho

aye if you are running lower the tracking will be out, a google on "bumpsteer" will explain why :)