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As lots of other people are starting to point out there are easier solutions to your dilemma. To add my own limited experience the mini transverse gearbox is the weakest point in the whole mini concept. Issigonis was forced by Leonard Lord, chief executive, to use a four cylinder BMC 'A' series...

Can't answer your questions directly but may I ask what your plan is? I'm guessing you have a classic mini and want to fit a K11 engine.

I may be wrong but it looks like electrolytic corrosion due to a past owner running with plain water rather than antifreeze. It may be worth getting the head pressure tested

Is the battery actually charged? Check the voltage with a multi-meter.

I'd be interested to know why, what I assume is, a simple hall sensor would need calibrating/correlating?

My K11 showed similar symptoms at idle, it would switch between OL and CL, the rpm would "hunt" and it throw a "too lean" fault code. Turned out to be the IACV, my assumption was that the ECU got confused and was attempting to compensate because the IACV was not responding correctly. I changed...

Sounds like insufficient voltage to both turn the engine over and start it. My guess is a dodgy battery connection, do the clamps, cables and vehicle connections look in good order? A long shot is a failing battery, get your multi meter out and check voltages and resistances throughout.

If you use the search facility on the forum there are some good diagrams showing what's what (y)

It's usually the obvious suspect, my guess would be that unplugging the MAF prompted it into life. A long shot would be a faulty MAF plug or corroded contacts. A do-able if fiddly job.

First suspect would be the MAF, check the live data and see if it responds to throttle opening. You can try unplugging the MAF and see how the engine responds, this will throw a code and light which you will have to clear. Also look at the O2 readings, lambda sensors are ultimately a consumable.

Is there an engine management light, do you have a code reader?

EOBD - European On Board Diagnostics. After 2000 every car sold in Europe had a 16 pin diagnostic socket, this socket is a universal fitment so that any code reader can give you fault codes. The reason I ask the question is a) a faulty crank sensor should give an error code and possibly an EML...

Hopefully you have your answer. What year is your car? Does it have EOBD and did it show an engine management light?

Is the whining noise possibly the starter motor spinning without engaging? If so you have a serious short somewhere, if you don't feel confident to diagnose it find a trusted auto sparky. Got to be cheaper than three starter motors.

I removed mine disassembled it, cleaned it and re-installed. It's not designed to be stripped down but it's do-able. I assume it can be purchased separately if necessary.

Nice one, this will test/improve your spannering skills - particularly shifting snapped studs and rounded nuts ;). I'll predict that when you lift the head you'll have at least one nice shiny piston top and combustion chamber!

Classic IACV symptoms

Idle air control valve needs cleaning/replacing. When the you load the alternator by using high demand electricals the engine will try to slow down and the ECU will try to compensate by opening the IACV.

From your pics it looks like the insulator and central electrode of the spark plug are still in place. Those are going to be forced into the cylinder in order to use the stud extractor so you're going to have to develop a strategy to remove the debris. Bluetac springs to mind :unsure:, if you...

eBay item 284422597317 is a cheap and cheerful solution, there are probably 500 + similar sets. What you buy should be determined your budget against whether you will ever use the kit again. For a one off use cheap and cheerful will solve your problem, if you want to build your toolkit then I...