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Yes each model has differences, however as both engine rad and condenser rad both sit and locate on your lower support, if you removed from the bottom support then both rads would tend to drop. The top way is the best as the condenser rad has a sensor attached to top pipe so it would be better...

The condeser rad is bolted to the main radiator with 4 screw bolts, if you have a charge cooler then this has to be removed as well as this is hooked on to the condenser rad and is in front of the condenser rad.

Depends on your model, but as i have just replaced my rads, starter alternator and fan motor(diesel version), for me it was easier to place the rad on the lower support when refitting, I also replaced the rubber bushes on the slam panel (screw out anti clockwise) as they had perished when removing.

Just seen your post, yes top way is best, I have changed my radiator and after cooler (mega amount) as engine has been refurbished, the slam panels are a pain but you get easier access to the engine bay and can change the rads easier that way the lower support stops in place and is easier to...

The pressure from driving through flood water may have loosend something, if you can take the car to an exhaust centre for a "free safety check" and they will check under the car for you?:unsure:

That is partly right, however it is about air to oxygen levels per volume of air, cold air contains more oxygen for the combustion process, however hot air contains less oxygen for the same volume of air, hence cars in hotter dryer climates need an increase in air volume as to contain the...

all I can confirm is march editions and again its the particular destination that the car is sold in will have different specifications depending on the climatic conditions the car has to operate in. hot dry conditions will tend to have larger airbox or larger inlet apetures. so be carefull, my...

Try this web site for part numbers: https://nissan-europe.epc-data.com/micra/k12e/ Check your model on the list and take a note of the part number, then check the 1.2 on the list and check the part number to see if they tally?if they do then you will know if they will fit, the petrol versions...

On the bulk head hiding behind front right headlight (driving side in the UK) is a number of earth straps bolted to the chassis, try cleaning these up as bad earthed electrics can play havoc on the lighting system, ever followed a car when they brake, either one light goes out or both become dim...

You should not need to replace the cam chain on the petrol version unless you develop a misfires and chain stretch, your model is a late k12 model and should have the higher tensile linked chains fitted. Only the Diesel versions need changing every 60K and they are the only version of the K12...

Add a benzine additive to the petrol and you car will run more efficiently and give you added MPG, and also offset the E10 petrol (90% petrol +10% ethanol ), which can be a problem for some motors.:unsure:

On the wishbone bolts, they are longer, but are still M12x1.25 pitch, so the new nyloc nuts (with a washer) will be fine. generally with production cars, the design teams use the minimum bolt strengh requirments and do not go overboard with specifications as their main aim is high volume to keep...

The bolts are ok, The bolts that I use have got a tensile strengh of either 10.9 or 12.9,and are zinc coated they are the only ones I use, you can use 10.9 or 11.9. 8.8 will do the job but for suspension this is the minimum standard you can use, I go for industrial strength as I full confidence...

Glad you are researching this subject, as you will have learned, jacking the vehicle and keeping it elavated safely for the tasks you want to perform is critical especially when you will spend some time doing various jobs.Hydraulic jacks are very good at quick lifting and ok for tyre changing...

Rear axle mounts would be the strongest point to place the axle stands on, however if you need to get access to that area, and the undercarriage is uncertain then use the scaffolding plank to span the width the car. again with the experience you have aquired you will know it''s all about...

I will be upgrading to one, when i have finished my rebuild.;)

This horn should give you no problems and decent quality for the money.:unsure: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132506150224

Caution is needed when finding a strong jacking/axle stand point, as all cars will be in a different state of corrosion, mine is A1 as it stored in winter with only 60K on the clock. If you are not certain about an area to jack on I tend to use scaffolding board (40mm thick) the same length as...

Jacks I have used for years and the profiled head is much wider to spread the weight, also consider rubber boots when lifting in areas you dont want dented or scratched. i have used these for years and will be more than a match for all cars so the K12 you have no worries.low profile jacks are...

A little silicon gell under the small part of the boot before the clip is tight and this will enable the rod to spin ok. I would definitely leave the sub frame for now with the description of the obstacles you would need to deal with. With the sub frame bushes you can easily check with a small...