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google "dll finder". that should help you. if it cant find the dll you're looking for on your computer, it'll download one from a bank on the net somewhere.

i experienced this while (stupidly and inexperiencedly) trying to weld aluminium to steel!

my front springs are tein 35mm lowering springs but i cut a coil off them, so theyre about 50mm. they still just about sit captive on monroe dampers (standard length) the rears are 50mm cut standard springs. they fail the MOT, so i put the standard ones back on. im looking at changing the...

mines in a similar situation! i replaced both my CV joints, and it was wandering around a bit, now ive done the wishbones as well!!!!!

try ABS motorfactor. ive only just found them and used them for parts for my MOT, but i'll definitely be going back..... £20.68 for front wishbones, £15.99 for a whole outer sill, £20 odd for a std rear damper. i only found them a few weeks ago.

yeah thats possible. the fact is that if youve changed the cv joint the old one was pretty knackered, and the new one was a bit of a squeeze in, meaning you'll have effectively moved the hub outwards, pulling it around from the track rod end.

this is awesome until you look closer and realise that they're pressurising the fuel as well..... no wonder there were fires in group B!

all sorted.

ok peoples. i need the following to get through my MOT. 1) rear drivers shock absorber. 2) passengers side headlamp 3) pair wishbones with hubs (attached) to replace knackered balljoints and finally 4) someone local to manchester/stockport who can do sill welding for pretty cheap

oil soaks into rubber, hardening it. ive got 3 lovely soft squishy toto T1-Rs and one thats like a lego tyre.

i wonder if you've got a tyre thats contaminated with oil. ive got one and it gives really unpredictable handling. sometimes its fine and i do my normal road speed, but sometimes the tyre locks up when i'm really light on the brake, and understeers in unusual situations.

i think it'd be a really jerky switch between super and turbo if you essentially just turn the super off. obviously its not easy to do but: i think you need a bypass (like k10 style), but opening based on revs instead of back-pressure (which is how i believe the k10 system works, but im not...

yeah i dont have them anymore. the ones ive got floating round are for a pug 205.

ive got a 1.3L flywheel thatll go on my high compression engine, ill keep my 1L flywheel with my standard 1L engine just incase anything goes wrong.

sounds pretty good, i'll have to go speak to my local machineshop.

yeah. the way i see it is like this: micras aren't powerful, but they are light. if you can take advantage of that then DO IT! my old 1.3L Si was faster to 60mph than a bmw 320 auto convertible with (apparently) 170bhp. my last micra weighed 747Kg with 10L of fuel in it.

would like a lightened balanced crank as well...... but heres to wishing!

true, but getting it professionally balanced is loads cheaper than being professionally lightened and balanced!

might have one somewhere. will have a look this afternoon.

ive been running no air filter for over 2 1/2 years now on 2 cars and never had any water problems. well, its leaked in through the doors, but ive driven through nearly 3 feet of water!