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this is almera GTi alloys (15X6J) with 195/50/15s. 45mm drop front, 50mm drop rear.

i got rid of my front ARB after getting harder drop link bushes. i snapped 3 droplink bars in a week and gave up!

the last time we had our kawasaki zx-10r on the dyno (202bhp at 14,250rpm from 999cc capacity) it made 65bhp at 6800rpm (micra rev limit)..... the point is that a micra block won't hold those revs. the rods and pistons are (for a start) way to heavy and not designed for those revs. the...

i just didnt point the grinder at the fuel tank....... i guess you could put up some kind of shield though if you're scared of it. i cant see grinding or welding sparks penetrating the fuel tank though. some water-soaked sheets should do the job.

sorry for the week late reply! ive had no internet since sunday eve.

yes there will be some sport welds to remove. either grind through them or drill them out. i dont know about the crossmember, mine was done when i bought it!

make sure you sand or wire brush the paint off around the weld area or you'll get a proper lungfull.

get a wire wheel for a drill and go at it until its bare metal and no rust left. i then cut out straight lines around the rust holes. buy a new sill (my local motorfactor has them at like £16 each), cut off the section you need, slightly bigger than the hole you've got, and weld it in place. do...

i find it easier to do sill work with a MIG welder. i used flux cored wire before i got some gas, and it worked a treat. i generally use MIG for up to 5mm and stick for 3mm upwards. if you havent got a MIG to hand, use your stick welder with small (1.6mm) rods and you should be ok. turn the...

what about the ignition barrel? i thought the key was specific to the ECU and immobiliser. i've been thinking about this conversion for a while now.

if you can find a way of securing the new one without damage, i'd grind flats onto the old one to get a spanner on it. where did you find inner rod ends? i've looked everywhere and it seems that you can only get them on a new (reconditioned) rack. as i dont run power steering, i'm going to buy...

ok so that one is pretty much ticked off the list..... im starting to think its inner CV joints or something similar, but i cant understand the speed related whining and resonance.

what were the symptoms?

possibly, but the whining doesnt relate to engine speed at all, just road speed. im rather worried its the diff failing.....

theres a speed related resonant whine coming from the front of my car. i thought it was wheel bearings on the way out so theyve been replaced, but the whining is still there. it resonates around 36-39mph, 53-55mph and 75-77mph on the clocks. the whining noise sounds like a failing bearing or...

i use this http://www.carlube.co.uk/4-stroke/carlube-4-stroke-semi-synthetic-motorcycle-oil

i think the only downside of the monroe dampers is they're standard height, ie. they dont have shortened damping rods, so max lows works out about 45-50mm i think while still seating the spring properly.

i run the monroe reflex dampers at the front, with lowering springs on them. i like them!

ive been running 28 front 32 rear, but thats to get some extra front grip. my lowering springs only just seat in the dampers, so the rear is about 15mm lower. as a result, the tendancy is to understeer, so i lowered the front pressure to get it to grip a bit better. i'm on toyo t1-r's, what...

i had this problem. in the end, the bolt head snapped off and i used a punch to knock the remainder out. new bolts were like £7 pair or something. the best way to remove the bushes is to heat the wishbone (i used a hot air gun), and use an appropriate size socket to knock the bush through.