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ive got this issue, but on a 1.0L facelift non coilpack. i regularly (every 3 months or so) take off my t/b and clean it with brake and parts cleaner and it helps a lot, but only for a week or so. think i'm just going to increase my idle speed little by little until it sits and idles smoothly...

i presume you've taken out your spark plugs, and the blocking feeling you're getting isn't just cylinder compression. i had similar problems when changing my inlet cam, but they all went away when i removed and released the tensioner.

i like the toyo t1r tyres, but get a 195/50/15 as theyre cheaper!

cheers Frank. as ever a fountain of knowledge! whats your opinion about putting the 1.3L exhaust cam in as well?

im in a '98. whats the reccommended procedure?

not as far as i'm aware Frank! whats the difference and results? i'm still on the standard rev limit.....

I know micras have a small hole in their torque/power curves to deal with emissions stuff but...... Yesterday i swopped my 1.0L inlet cam for a 1.3L cam. i can definitely feel more power, but the hole in the power is now really significant between 40-50mph in 2nd gear (estimated 4000-5000rpm)...

yeah i'd love a set of manifolds!!! i need a 3d printer and furnace!!!!!!!

i used a plastic scraper and brake cleaner and some elbow grease.

how's this for reviving an old thread? are these bushes still available?

you can get them fairly cheap on demon tweeks. http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/wheel-nuts-bolts/grayston-wheel-stud

bit too far away though!

i'd swop you!!! i want discs!

looks respectable to me mate! nice going.

i had that problem with my cat. both the bolts were so rusted they had completely seized onto the cat. give them a turn and SNAP. i drilled them out and fitted a nut and bolt arrangement instead.

i dont use them because im a cheapo.... im not saying theyre useless or pointless, just that i dont use them. as to the manufacturing point, people make things every day that are completely pointless, yet they still sell in their millions! case in point...

i doubt a 1mm spigot ring is necessary. wheel nuts have chamfered inner lips, so will pull the wheel straight and true as you tighten them. make sure you tighten 1 by 1 and you cant go wrong.

it works for thorns and nails, but not for big slices. i think the biggest pucture it will "fix" is about 1/8 inch.

i run 195/50/15 fine.

i held mine on with impact adhesive. just a line of glue down each side of the wrap-around parts held for 4 months, until i did a 200 miles motorway journey. "repaired" the glue by re-gluing, and its held for the last 6 months no problem. fight glue with glue i guess!