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No I don't why you ask nesty? :)

How about going to breaker for a very old Micra manual? I would but also await real answer on your question. Overhere I can return defect parts to breaker no sweat so looks to me easy way. On NATS, if driver window is original and it should, no sticker is quite realiable. Perhaps finding a...

Drop rust prevention inside out ;)

Been there, well done :)

Oh that have been one nasty relay. Am glad you solved it and wrote it out confident. This was a learning moment for me, had a screaming relay turned out to be mass

Do you have pictures of the products you bought?

Yes it is not that big it can not work I agree. I cardboarded a stock 1.6 radiator because lower hose didn't get near hot (felt by hand) and now it does

I broke off the parts you are about to loosen. Also two out of eight studs. I cemented it (airtite) passed MOT and now drive around with lambda connector loose so it is stuck in open loop. But if your lambda eats threads then you might end up breaking studs to get manifold off so that is kind...

Not sure I understand fully but that part is aluminium? If so welding will be expensive and there is some stuff that can glue this but it is not cheap either. I can't imagine you can not source a k12 for parts

Same problem overhere, I passed MOT with some firegum, airtite is what you need for that moment

Did I miss it you have a turbo on it? I'm no turbo guy but yes there will be some more heat then of course

Radiator looks quite big, you can get 70 degrees from lower hose to engine? That is to my best knowledge what is not too cold. Not sure I missed something, running a bit leaner solves that perhaps :D

I did order cheap, it can be roomy so that you know and you will want to keep the lower ring (size quite bigger) stuck in place or risk ripping up your cast iron manifold, break the two first threads trying to take off manifold and become quite stuck. If I could find a suitable header with work...

It is not the rust they care for it are holes that are too big to view your Micra as passable for structural soundness or it is just their book rule on a hole that is too big but for this kind of rules where I live I can tell they are meant for safety and not for annoying car owners. I assume...

I did it with the blue relay for a green one you can look that up in FSM just some resistor protecting ECU. But perhaps this answer is not an answer but just a way to get you along :)

Wow I'll start from there matey. Not sure what garage overtightened it? I can't distilate from text I believe? Some rust there won't help but I disregarded the rust subject but some rust on just the brake rotor does give vibration not starting about torqueing wheels on rust instead of hub hole...

autodoc should have a lot of brands but i drive k11 pre-facelift manual so you will have to see for yourself. perhaps auto a bit less or a few I hope for you

I would use Nissan Datascan to see what is working and start from there but that requires Nissan Datascan and I wouldn't know much about another approach because I bought Datascan when I had use for it (idle and timing) and it can be done without but it is harder. Nissan Datascan can be pretty...

Meh tyre mechanics and impact guns. That is bad to hear and for me a reconsideration for my tyre address. Can you please point me to the Lanoguard product you have used? https://www.lanoguard.co.uk/

If someone here had told me hammer part that will bend not the cv-joint itself, (angled part) this would have saved an hour or more time. Left cv-joint presumably original and perhaps fubar because really 80% also vibrate away. The hint in difference, not measured but was good, but the hint is...