The DIY turbo build thread - Page 4

CMF_Danvillan

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Installing a sandwich plate to feed the oil cooler and also the turbo. Had to use a different oil filter which is about 60mm long so it would clear the power steering line. The sandwich plate was from a SR20/ S13.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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The evolution of the intake manifold.

Did some calculations and figured the plenum volume was going to be a bit too big probably resulting in a bit of lag.

So modified the plenum to reduce the volume by about 800cc and as a result I should be able to fit the strut brace now.

My welds were pretty rough so I had to grind them smooth, also polished it up a little. Hopefully that the last time I have to alter the intake manifold, oh well a bit of trial and error.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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Hey dens, big thanks for the help I hope you can get your hands on that wiring diagram for me you'll be a lifesaver.

UPDATE:
Installed the oil cooler in between the radiator and the intercooler. Due to the fact I'm still on some what of a budget no braided lines just rubber oil lines.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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Picked a set of cheap rims 15x7 offset 28+.

Going to repaint them. Started to strip the paint off them today.

Not sure what colour to paint them. May go with a plasti dip so I can change the colour when I get sick of them.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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The air box I made a while back ended up being too big and a bit too heavy as well, so just ended up getting a K&N apollo filter which is an enclosed pod filter. Being enclosed should avoid any defect or emission dramas at the RTA. It also comes with a barb to plumb the cam cover breather line into. I suppose being enclosed will stop it from sucking any hot air from inside the engine bay as well.

Made an adaptor plate from the turbo intake to the filter. Also put a inlet for the recirculating BOV line.

Just gotta run the cold air ducting through an enlarged hole where the original cold air feed was, under the guard to the front bumper bar.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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Just small bits and pieces left now.

Oil feed line installed. 4an braid line which runs a restrictor not sure the size or if it is needed. Ive read you don't need it on a journal bearing turbo but also read that it helps to keep the oil pressure up for the rest of the motor. So I'll run it as is for a while and see how it goes.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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Oil is feed from the sandwich plate for the oil cooler rather than the port on the front of the head. Mainly because the oil will be feed from closer to the oil pump by using the sandwich plate port.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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New slimline radiator fan bought and installed to give a little bit more space for the various oil and water lines that are running behind the radiator.

Lets see how long it last, only cost $30 off ebay.
 

CMF_nas55s

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i'm looking to turbo my micra that i've just purchased. im looking for a cheap but reliable option to turbo it. do you have any suggestions on what i should do? and how much i should set my budget at?
 

CMF_Danvillan

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Welded a piece of aluminium to the intercooler pipe which I drilled and tapped for the intake air temp sensor. I mounted just after the intercooler and low in the engine bay so there is no heat sink issues which can result in misreading by the sensor.

I went to the wreckers and got an air temp sensor off a Ford Festiva for free, should do the trick.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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nas55s,
I said before and I'll say it again if your looking to turbo a micra you could budget $5000 but it will blow out. Basic setup you'll a need turbo manifold = $500 - $800, turbo either t2,t25 or td04 = $150 - $300 secondhand $800 - $1000 new, exhaust and dump pipe = $1000 - $2000, oil/water lines = $70 - $100, intercooler and piping = $200 - $600, bov = $50 - $250, fuel pressure reg = $50 - $100 and sundries (bolts, clamps, gaskets, etc) = $200+ (this stuff adds up). That's for a basic setup now will that be reliable, probably not. Probably forgot some stuff as well.

Additional to this for reliability you would want, bigger injectors and fuel rail (sr20 are popular) = $200+ secondhand, bigger fuel pump = $50-$150, ECU = $2500+ (new, installed and tuned), oil cooler=$150+, bigger radiator= $150 - $800, HD clutch =$250.

Then to take it to the next level, lightened flywheel =$300-$500, bigger cams= $700-$1000, forged internals= $2000+, VLSD gearbox= $1000+.

I guess the cost to do a turbo conversion is based on how far you want to go, if you want to buy new or used parts, how much work you do yourself. I have done most the work myself and once complete the cost will be around the $15,000 mark as a guess I've lost count of the dollars I've dropped into this build (that's on the whole car, paint, suspension, brakes, interior, engine rebuild, etc)

Bottom line is it would be cheaper to buy a factory turbo car and mod that. But if your like me and just like Micra's then go nuts the more turbo micra's getting around the better if you ask me ;).
 

CMF_frank2

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Danvillan WROTE:

"Just small bits and pieces left now.

Oil feed line installed. 4an braid line which runs a restrictor not sure the size or if it is needed. Ive read you don't need it on a journal bearing turbo but also read that it helps to keep the oil pressure up for the rest of the motor. So I'll run it as is for a while and see how it goes.
Click to expand...

here,s the flow on my mine sourced from the cylinder head gallery dan, with a very tight restrictor fitted (12 min per litre)

i am currently running with about 2 x that flow (1mm-ish restrictor and 5 min per litre)
 

CMF_Danvillan

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Under bonnet temps are going to be a big issue with the high mount turbo. The DIY heat shield didn't fit with the bonnet closed (so $8 wasted no biggie), even with the ceramic coat on the turbo I was worried about the turbo cooking the paint off the bonnet. So invested in some of this stuff, DEi floor and tunnel shield (designed to withstand 1750f deg) which consists of a thin aluminium layer, a 4-5mm layer of heat proof insulation with an adhesive backing (stated to handle 450f deg).

 

CMF_Danvillan

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$50 for a 600mm x 450mm piece .

The aluminium layer is not that thin and does form real easy to the bonnets grooves so had to install in pieces.

Between this stuff, the ceramic coating and the bonnet vents it should do the trick.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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Nismo cluster re-pinned to fit the JDM looms. Everything working except for the fuel sender. I have the JDM fuel sender and tried to wire it up. The AUS model has 3 pin loom from the sender and the JDM has a 2 pin loom.

Help anyone?

Anyone got a JDM k11 wiring diagram for the cluster/fuel sender?

Oh yeah, a few sticker because I didn't think the Nismo cluster was JDM enough.
 

CMF_Rudy

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Danvillan WROTE:

"The AUS model has 3 pin loom from the sender(*actually two senders)
Click to expand...

one is earth (black), one goes to the negative side of the fuel gauge (in the book it says yellow/red), the last goes to the negative side of the low fuel light (yellow/green???)

the jap sender would have the same surely, does the jap sender(s) go to earth differently
 

CMF_Danvillan

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Only two wires on the jap senders. Red from the gauge and brown from the low fuel. Not sure how it goes to earth maybe at the cluster or something?

I need the jap wiring diagram me thinks.
 

CMF_Danvillan

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Picked up a couple of cheap gauges water temp and oil pressure.

Didn't want to use pods mounted up on the dash wanted something a little more subtle

So I decided to make gauge pod out of the lower centre console thingy.

I cut out the little shelf thing.

Used some 60mm PVC cut on angles to face upwards a bit once mounted.

Cut some 4mm MDF to fit in the cut out which was glued in place with a hot glue gun,

Used some bog to blend the mdf to the original plastic.

Tomorrow i'll sand it and mount the PVC and paint it.
 
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