My build thread...

G'day everyone!

I've been around these forums for a good 4-5 years now. It's time to start my build thread
My desired end result is a nice 130-150kw at the wheels but time will tell...

I'd love to show you all the pictures, but I'm in the desert (which is why I have time to write this) and won't be able to upload pics until June. Having said that, I expect this thread to be buried until I turn it active again.

Without further adieu, below is a list of the restoration and upgrade parts I've picked up.

RESTORATION (new boring ****)

Air Con removed
Overflow Bottle
Distributor
O2 Sensor
New CV shafts
Ignition Leads
Denso iridium plugs
16mm core Koyo radiator
front wishbone lower ball joint replacements
Gaskets and seals for you f'ing name it...

INTERIOR

Battery moved to underneath passenger seat
SAAS Kombat seats (I know, I know but they're being upholstered in leather )
Custom Seat Rails (I guess this means I trust my welds with my life)
Carpeted rear cargo tray - Rear seats & parcel tray removed
New car mats
All plastics vinyl sprayed black
Dash wrapped in black 'leather' vinyl (common sense has prevailed – not gonna rip this up to fibreglass a phablet mold in, just going to use a windscreen tablet cradle)
Carpet sprayed vinyl black
Handbuilt Door Cards (will be getting a fab place to modify my standard jap 3 door drink holders to fit bloody aussie sized drinks.
Drive side front pillar plastic w/ gauge pods akin to Danvillan's post.
SAAS Steering wheel w/ aluminum boss kit (it'll do 'til I find a momo wheel )

ICE & CONVENIENCE

Super S cluster w/ yellow led lights behind face (only tested outside car, perhaps too bright)
Warlock full car alarm system w/ keyless entry (one of the best upgrades once I finish installing it..)
Sony DSXS300BTX iPod cradle, double usb & bluetooth head unit – CD is a dead format...
Sony XSGTX6942 6x9" Car Speakers (running HPF)in AERPRO curved 6x9 ported boxes
JVC 12” 1200watt peak Subwoofer (running LPF) in 'Professional' SBL curved sub box box (not ported)
Soundstream SST6.5 Tarantula - 6.5" Speakers in spaced door cards (excuse to make new cards )
Alpine MRX-V70 1200 5 CH Car Amplifier – to run it all
To be added – phablet sized permanent car phone for gps and bluetooth/hands free call.

HANDLING, BRAKES & RIMS

Whiteline front sway bar
Whiteline rear sway bar
Whiteline strut brace
Whiteline panhard rod
Whiteline camber kit
whiteline caster/traction kit
Yellow Speed coilovers 5kg front, 3kg rear
rebuilt N15 Pulsar SSS AD22VF front calipers (painted yellow) & vented, slotted rotors (shiny )
Rising Star 15x7.5 +25 4x100 rims, (whoever posted them b4 thank you! Was hooked and purchased immediately )

EXTERIOR

WALD body kit (still working the side skirts on, they need to be screwed into car and foam fill the gaps) – front and rear been fitted then removed for roadworthy plus a lot of engine bay work in coming months.
Super S wing w/ filled in brake light area (leds broken, not paying an arm and leg for new one)
Clear side indicators
Tinted windows
Nismo style grille
Jap standard rear lights
Black chrome head lights w/ 4000 HID kit
Car is currently a nice black w/ gold flake but theres a couple chips and the aero kit isn't painted, undecided on colour at moment.

COOL ENGINE STUFF I HAVE:
2.5” zorst with Roxy muffler w/ titanium tip (if I recall correctly)
3.6kg JUN light weight flywheel
NISMO oil filler cap
NISMO engine mounts
Microtech LT-8S ECU w/ loom
Mulholland cams w/ shims (unsure of the degrees atm, been in a box in my cupboard for the last 2yrs haha
sr20 throttlebody & rb25 AFM
race fuel pump (forget brand atm)

ENGINE SOON TO BE PURCHASED (FOLLOWING 3 MONTHS):
Things start to look very blue monster here – I'm a fan of the build
I'm trying to purchase a spare engine to rebuild, otherwise I'll rip out the black cars engine and get busy with it.

Garrett GT2560-4 T28BB turbo –$1000 delivered from kinugawa turbo website
ARP bolts – ArgoRace.com.au OR PLR.com.au – sussing prices from both sides atm
Custom rods – (2mm Shortened) – ArgoRace.com.au OR PLR.com.au – sussing prices from both sides atm
Custom forged pistons (2mm lengthened crown) dished for lower comp – ArgoRace.com.au OR PLR.com.au – sussing prices from both sides atm
1mm aluminum head gasket - ArgoRace.com.au OR PLR.com.au – sussing prices from both sides atm
O-ringed block
High flowed polished head

I'm hoping to keep the rods, pistons, head gasket, o-ringed block, hi flowed polished head and arp bolts at a cost of between $4-6000, though I'm not really sure of the costs, just ballpark figures – this could explode to $7k ??

JUST LIKE A BOUGHT ONE:
Stuff I'll get fabricated by myself and a few good men.

Custom front mount intercooler (unsure of size yet, will seek advice from few good men)
Custom Side Entry Plenum
Custom fuel rail (have to talk to sum1 about the right injectors)
All the piping for intercooler, turbo, engine mani.

There's a couple things in this list that aren't in my hand yet, but I can guarantee they will be asap upon my return to Australia. As I've said this a merely a placeholder post, It'll get a lot more detailed with 10s/100s of photos in a few months.

Any input or advice, post away or send me a pm

Cheers if you made it this far through the wall of text....

sounds impressive pierce
roll on blue monster reborn

Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

I sussed out some SPS pistons/rings they were around the $1000 mark and the rods (can't remember where they were from but the company was recommended by SPS pistons) were a little less than $1000 if I remember correctly. I have another block that I am going to build a forged motor but I just want to get mine on the road first and once I blow the motor I'll swap it out.

I planned on polishing my head but decided against it, I just cleaned up the exhaust ports. I believe the intake side has casting marks which are designed to promote atomisation of the air/fuel mix and removing the casting can hinder and result in detonation, I don't know how true it is but for the couple of kw that may have been gained I decided against the polish of the intake port. The biggest restriction on the CG13 is the intake manifold.

O'Brien Aluminum make copper gaskets of all thicknesses starting from $148 (prices just went up but still cheap).

Good luck with the money pit..lol.

Quantum industries at Woodridge, they do CP Pistons $8-900 with ring 4 week wait

Thanks Frank still trying to find an appropriate name for the project...

RTK thanks for the shope name, I've sent them an email regarding my request and I'll give em a call on Monday. Can't hurt to keep shopping around (although I'm mighty impressed with PLR at the moment - but they probably have the highest prices). Just gotta remember you get what you pay for...

Well, I contacted greenline and they said it'll be a while until I can get a JUN flywheel, I said fine, I wont be home for months. Decided to pay for the 3.6kg ultralight flywheel. Hopefully it'll survive the kw upgrade. If this is a bad idea, someone clue me in haha.

Going to contact exedy for strongest clutch they can make me next payday.

asdame,s jun and abrasive plate had problems pierce (180mm just wont hack it), you,re best to go for a bigger 200mm setup imo (GA16 f/w and QG plate)

If you wanted a 190mm flywheel, Alloy Race Components (in Aus) used to make rebuild-able micra flywheels at 3.2kg's iirc (i bought a few for UK members a good few years ago and have one in mine, very nice bit of kit and top guys at the shop). I'd assume they could still make you one up as they were made to order (just double check it could handle 190mm ) and may be cheaper than a jun?

Exedy did say they had the specs of whiteknights clutch setup when i enquired but it was kind of a secret as it was made to datrats specs, so i don't see why they cant make up something to suit yours.

Npc clutches in coopers plains can do just about anything you need done also. made a flywheel for me and clutch kit. reasonably priced.

I'm gonna stick with Exedy and I'll change the purchase to the 4.3kg flywheel. With a little luck it'll all hold out haha.

Because if it doesnt, i'll bite the bullet and drop a couple grand on a custom gearbox/clutch setup.

the GA16 fidanza f/w is good value for an alloy + replaceable steel insert pierce (190mm) http://gripforce.com/product/fidanz...sx-nx-1600-ga16de-sentra-pulsar-e16-1.6l.html or ebay or whatever.
thats what baguete is running on his iirc

Pierce WROTE:

"I'm gonna stick with Exedy and I'll change the purchase to the 4.3kg flywheel. With a little luck it'll all hold out haha.

Because if it doesnt, i'll bite the bullet and drop a couple grand on a custom gearbox/clutch setup.

Click to expand...

For what its worth mine when mine was N/A it loved the 3.2kg flywheel. Now that its supercharged its equally delightful lol.

N/A Rev Vid : http://www.micra.org.uk/attachments/solarice-rev-mp4.8092/

frank2 WROTE:

"the GA16 fidanza f/w is good value for an alloy + replaceable steel insert pierce (190mm) <a href="http://gripforce.com/product/fidanz...sx-nx-1600-ga16de-sentra-pulsar-e16-1.6l.html" title="http://gripforce.com/product/fidanz...sx-nx-1600-ga16de-sentra-pulsar-e16-1.6l.html" target="_blank">http://gripforce.com/product/fidanz...sx-nx-1600-ga16de-sentra-pulsar-e16-1.6l.html</a> or ebay or whatever.

thats what baguete is running on his iirc

Click to expand...

Does that flywheel bolt straight on the k11 gearbox and clutch with no mods? Thanks

the bolt pattern and dish is the same, but the centerbore is a bit bigger eddie, i would fit a nylon spigot ring personally (i,m not sure if baguete fitted one onto his)
his was a 190mm puck clutch, but you could probably chamfer a 200mm QG plate like my 170/180 hybrid clutch

Chose PLR rebuilders, quoted a little over $3k for the works on engine rebuild, testing, and performance bits internal gotta find a way to get my engine to them when I get it myself,,

Had a discussion about the piston crown lengthening and rod shortening, PLR was of the mind that thats the wrong way to go about it. Apparently I should go with longer rod and shorter pistons as this is generally less weight and I will still be able to obtain the same compression ratio desired. I'm still trying to figure out which way to go...

The engine is quite light, only need a lift into the car and out of it

Hi frank do you know what size spigot ring is need ? Thanks

Well, what a splurge day. Purchased the Intercooler, Turbo, Fuel Pump, JDM power mirrors, oil,water,boost/vacuum gauges, Python Car alarm, power window kit... There goes a chunk of my pay

Gonna invest in internals with Danvillan as a group purchase. Will these easter holidays ever end so they can send me an invoice!!!!

Pierce WROTE:

Had a discussion about the piston crown lengthening and rod shortening, PLR was of the mind that thats the wrong way to go about it. Apparently I should go with longer rod and shorter pistons as this is generally less weight and I will still be able to obtain the same compression ratio desired. I'm still trying to figure out which way to go...

Click to expand...

the shorter rods just gain ringland height/strength tho surely pierce ? you only have to google-image "diesel piston" to see the average (20:1 c/r, before boost) det resistant fat ringlands eh.
you should,nt actually gain any piston weight eh

Don't spend all you're cash just yet, we got some pistons and rods to buy On a side note I have a contact who makes radiators you interested in a custom aluminium rad? Will get a price for a double core rad. Talk soon.

frank,

Thanks for that, I don't know very much at all regarding internals and the effects of changing their shape. I'm honestly quite confident to copy BMonster's internals (even if some other ((TMRS)) members knock em as crap, or was it '**** tin' word for word haha).

It worked bloody great in the end, didn't miss a beat. If I have that engine quality and then move onto an awesome tuner that can get me the most out of the engine I'm sure I'll be sitting happy on 140+ kw. Unless I run out of cash first :/

Danvillan,

Very interested in a custom aluminum radiator mate, I've been cruising eBay for the last month praying for an elusive larger core or twin core radiator to pop up. PM me some details when you have em It's another thing that is really 70% wankfactor/30% peace of mind for cooling but you'll never hear me say it out aloud (again)

Did you manage to keep Air Conditioning? I really want to try to keep air conditioning the more I think about it but if it has to go, it has to go...

EDIT: Danvillan, I wont be chasing the radiator until next payday (thursday after next), gotta keep a couple dollars in my pocket..

I never knocked the internals.... I just said It could have been done a lot better. Koverts stock engine goes better then blue monster ffs. If I spent all that money to build an engine to make 140kw Id just go buy something else. If that's all you want, bolt on good **** to a stock engine, make more power and if **** goes boom, it's a few hundred for another stocker. True story. Shouldn't be any reason why you couldn't go 200 on a built motor these days

JCMicra runs a bolt on kit, with upgraded Turbo, Haltec ECU, 10psi, 170kws! 140kws is nothing compared to what these motors could make

Hey TMRS, I figured that post would get your attention haha. No disrespect meant.

You're on to something though, with built internals, I should try to chase the 200kw mark hehe. Will be interesting to see if it could make it there. But honestly I only have a budget 10grand to finish the car, we'll see whats attainable in that price range. Do you know a good tuner for microtech ECU?

RTK,

Yeah, breifly the plan is to run a T28 @10psi, microtech LT-8 ECU, forged internals and stock dizzy. So if a good tune is all it takes I guess 170kws @ wheels is easily attainable. This is good to hear

Pierce WROTE:
RTK,

Yeah, breifly the plan is to run a T28 @10psi, microtech LT-8 ECU, forged internals and stock dizzy. So if a good tune is all it takes I guess 170kws @ wheels is easily attainable. This is good to hear

Click to expand...

Have fun when you hit High Boost on standard dizzy!

Perhaps someone could explain how to go about a better distributor? I'm up **** creek with that one (as with many other things haha)

After googling coilpack conversions, I guess it's something I'll have a shop do, unless I'm lucky enough to find a backyard sparky/mechanic. It's definitely over my head...

Hey Pierce, don't know about the air con till I get the motor back in the engine bay and I'll work from there. I'm pretty determined to keep it I think the main drama will be the AC piping and possibly the fan fouling the dump pipe etc.

RE: the ignition I'm not real cluey about the setup but I believe you will need to run a CDI system similar to the Autronic 500r CDI with coil packs. See the wiring diagram http://www.mrm-racing.se/bag/DFCDI BASIC WIRING.pdf just not sure how you wire in to the ecu/dizzy (tuner or auto sparky should have it sussed out). I will probably run the EMS equivalent as I'm running the stinger. Hopefully someone with some knowledge in relation to this type of ignition system can help (but I wouldn't hold your breath the question has been asked before with not many willing to help). If I get it sorted out ill definitely let you know (don't think this will be a DIY job though)lol.

The rad will be a while off just making inquiries re: the price and if its reasonable I'll let you know. I don't think it's a wank factor part more a reliability performance part as it will increase cooling during long periods of boost therefore prolonging the life of the engine, either way can't hurt to have an upgraded cooling system.

Okay Dan, good to hear.

So after looking a little further into it, going microtech, I can get the:

X4 Ignitor Box - stated to work with all aftermarket ECU's
http://microtechefi.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36&product_id=60

and the:

4 Cylinder Bosch Ignition Coils
http://microtechefi.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36&product_id=90

and the:

Universal Crank Trigger Kit
http://microtechefi.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=36&product_id=73

Understandably this is not everything required to perform the change, however are there any other parts required that are easily attainable online, for those in the know of coilpack conversions Or am I heading down the wrong path?

Thanks for the info guys.

these CGA coils are a direct fit guy,s, and sub 1 bar of boost aint gonna blow your spark out ffs

pic2

frank,

As always you're a goldmine of information Whilst I wont be going for those in particular, the pictures are starting to put the puzzle together for me.

So basically the coil packs are each plugged into a spark plug socket? I noticed that the power connector is the typical one used in the micra, what exactly do they plug into though? I'm assuming they will all plug into the loom from my x4 ignitor module, which is plugged into my lt8s ECU?

After looking closely at the picture for the bosch 4cyl coilpack set on microtech, I'm beginning to think that the picture is just a default pic from bosch? I'm hoping I can attach the bosch coilpacks to the spark plug sockets (the long black piece of plastic that runs down to the spark plug). But something in my mind tells me it wont be a case of plug and play.

Pierce WROTE:

"But something in my mind tells me it wont be a case of plug and play.

Click to expand...

Nope, it won't be. I have individual coils and a 4-coil ignitor module sitting around because to get them working would've meant setting up a separate sync signal because the standard CAS in the K11 dizzy only provides a trigger/ref signal, once the 5th hole is covered up. The plan is to do it one day and piss off the dizzy setup one day but for now, it works. The drawback to using the dizzy is no sequential fire so fuel economy on cruise/light throttle suffers but doesn't matter if it's a track car..

You won't have sequential ignition (or injection) without a sync signal, so you'll both be batch-firing spark and fuel. The reason for this is the sync signal tells the ECU where cylinder No.1 is. With a dizzy the spark is would be in the right place at the right time, effectively meaning sequential fire, so I wouldn't bother with separate coils unless you sort out a sync signal.

I don't know if anyone's used that crank wheel before but you should give it a go if you're keen, which it sounds like you are. You could then use that for Sync and blank off the dizzy and use the CAS for your trigger signal. That's generally what people do I believe.

The only person I've ever known that built a setup with CDI is TMRS. If you're looking to go down that path, good luck

frank2 WROTE:

"sub 1 bar of boost aint gonna blow your spark out ffs

Click to expand...

I lol'd

---dens

i think you would need a crank and cam sensor for sequential firing eh (for the tdc cyl 1 reference point) here,s a CGA one, you would need the coilpack idler gear, or else mount a pip onto yours.
and the microtech will have the 4 channel wires for a plug-n-play coilover setup surely ?

hmm more food for thought frank, and I'm pretty sure you're right about the lt8 ECU, will have to doublecheck the specs to make sure though. Hopefully I won't need the ignitor module eh? save some money.

I tried to email Radek earlier, but the email I have for him is dead, last time he dropped off some goods for me at my house I didn't grab his number... Can someone help me out? I just wanna talk to him regarding the CDI coilpack conversion he has completed himself.

i could send you those parts ^ pierce if you take that route

ahh ok frank, so this setup would ideally run the CGA coils, plugged into the block, wired back to the lt8 ECU, with that cam cover with sensor on it (is that just the plug or is there a sensor installed?) installed, also wired to the lt8 ECU.

At that point I would still be missing 'coilpack idler gear' - I have no idea what this is .

This would remove the need of the regular distributor, and would be able to run well at 150-200kw @ wheels, perhaps?

the CGA idler gear has a stump that triggers that sensor mounted on the alloy cover mate (all direct fit)
and jimGR has the same setup on his high kw CGA iirc

hmm and all this fits on the cg13de you say?! This seems a lot better and cheaper than the route I was thinking of taking, plus less messy install....

Any other roadbumps you know of to do this? Otherwise I'm very keen

If there's no hidden gremlins in this setup and it's not going to limit my kw output, I'm sold. If you really can get all this together that would be amazing frank, PM me for prices, payment and postage eh?

Cheers

see what turbs advises pierce, you will still need to rig up a crank sensor of some sort.
the CGA uses a different flywheel, with the cast sensor ring alongside the starter ring, tho i have some of these auto starter rings that could be attached to your f/w, or else you would need one of the sensor kits for the other end of the crank eh.
the parts are worth about £10 per item i guess, and a CGA rail i sent a few weeks back cost about £9, but airmail goes a bit mental once you exceed 2kg iirc !

well in the meantime, I decided to pick up a SARD Racing Fuel Pressure Regulator in silver, ProVent 200 crankcase unit, turbosmart kompact Plumb Back BOV, Odyssey PC680MJT Dry Cell Battery and a MISHTO ac/dc tig/mma inverter 3 in 1 welder (chinese ****).

Concerned about the welder, but you know what they say. If it doesn't brake in the first year, it'll last you a lifetime.

Well you gotta pay your way in this life right? Just did a little tally on everything I've purchased and estimates on things left to do. This estimate does not include on road costs (mod plates, engineering certs, rego labor costs for techy stuff installation work).. It's been a long 2.5 years already collecting parts and I'm including the handling gear I'll be stealing from my green micra.

Here we go:

original shell $1700
overflow bottle $45
twin core radiator $180
battery $250
dyes and engine spray paints $200
fabrics $100
wood $100
tools $500
Dash wrapped in vinyl $300
Door card vinyl $50
Pillar gauge modification $50
Steering wheel w/ boss kit $150
Car alarm system $250
Power window kit $210
Power mirrors $150
Audio stuff (everything) $2000
All handling gear (everything) $2700
Seats plus leathering $1200
AD22VF calipers w/new rotors $300
Rims $500
Rubber $400?
WALD body kit $1500
2.5" zorst w/ roxy titanium muffler $250
3.6kg JUN flywheel $400
Nismo Engine Mounts $120
CAMS, sr20TB n' fuel rail w/inj n' rb25afm $900
Microtech LT8S ECU w/ loom $400
Spare engine and gearbox w/ancillaries $300
Intercooler $150
race fuel pump $130
Timing chain kit $150
VRS kit $120
Garrett T28 Turbo $1200
PPM custom Rods n' Pistons $1400
SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator $120
Turbosmart Kompact plumb back BOV $160
ProVent Crankcase (oil catch can) $310
Custom Head Gasket $200
Engine machined and tested $1000
Welder and gas $750
Materials to weld all piping etc.. $400??
Parts to change to CDI coilpack ignition $1000
Paint and tools to paint $2000
exedy hdb clutch $350

Somewhere on 25000 I reckon by the time I'm done. Could've bought a new car eh?

As Dan Aykroyd once said "Yeah, but what an experience."

No regrets whatsoever, in fact it's convinced me that 200kw is attainable with the built engine. Time will tell

welcome to my world hehe i added a paint job on that and a bunch of custom one off **** made, it cost over 40 grand so far.

haha Majiga, I was just talking to a mate who was blown away at the expense so far, which is very likely to blow out to 30grand...

I explained to him that this 'crazy guy' Majiga on the forums isn't on the road yet and has probably spent 40 grand. We just want the best for our babies haha...

I don't really wanna feature this thing in a magazine or anything, but it'll be nice to take it to show days and flaunt it haha

well now, short of buying lengths of fuel line I'm pretty sure I don't need to buy anything else except to sort out the ignition.

Saying that, I'm ignoring the fact that the gearbox will not really handle the power. Will cross that bridge when I get there.

EDIT: Majiga, I'll be painting it myself once I get good enough, I've got the tools, just need the talent. Should save me a fair bit. Luckily I've got a mate of a mate with a decent shed to spray in.

yeah i did very little myself on my build i let mates touch my last car and learnt from the experience but in saying that you don't always get what you pay for trusting in the "said" professionals either. i've had countless problems with engineering stuff ups. also i had a bloody good paying job (the fuel of madness) till the floods came. I was smashing the constant upgrades. Work getting flooded kinda put a halt on my progress. you will be finished before me the way things are. I'm really keen to see the figures you pull.

Frank2, I've pm'd you RE: I'd love to buy some stuff off you.

Cheers.

EDIT: Apparently my shiny new flywheel has finally been delivered. Took five months of patience :/ I'll weigh it when I get home to make sure they didn't send me the wrong one.

I realized I have no oil cooler built into this so far and have decided against one as it will be a street car, so it won't be pushed all day long. Thoughts?

Somebody explain to me how to make photos under 120kb of decent quality?

Also, I just spent 7k on a paint job. Black engine bay, Yellow car

Really poor for the next 15 weeks though...

Pierce WROTE:

"Frank2, I've pm'd you RE: I'd love to buy some stuff off you.

Cheers.

Click to expand...

nowt in my inbox or junkmail as yet mate

i downloaded a program called free image converter allowed me to drop the size of my iphone pics.

how is everything coming along?.

im up to getting crank case bolts from japan atm. and takin my engine to a different engine builder and takin the old engine builder to court been a fantastic experience lol.