My Little Beast Pt.2

CMF_Majiga

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linking from my original page https://micra.org.uk/cmf/message/75086

Body kit almost finished bad boy eyes to be smoothed out so they're not sharp edges. Have to fix the bloated anaconda looking front bar on the front bumper to make sure its all even. Side grills finished and side skirts on but not finished lining them up perfect.
 

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CMF_Majiga

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putting the bottom end together was an ABSOLUTE C**T the par rods were big fat bastards bangin on everything had to very carefully grind them free in the bottom of the piston sleeve. But 3 Times lucky we got it to all turn smoothly.
 

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CMF_Majiga

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brand new power steering rack arrived today from england at 1/4 of the cost to get from nissan $280 delivered gotta love scratch and dent sale the original box was ruined so they couldn't sell it full price.
 

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CMF_frank2

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Majiga WROTE:

"putting the bottom end together was an ABSOLUTE C**T the par rods were big fat bastards bangin on everything had to very carefully grind them free in the bottom of the piston sleeve. But 3 Times lucky we got it to all turn smoothly.
Click to expand...

you cut into the rods ? :eek:
 

CMF_SSUK

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Majiga WROTE:

"putting the bottom end together was an ABSOLUTE C**T the par rods were big fat bastards bangin on everything had to very carefully grind them free in the bottom of the piston sleeve. But 3 Times lucky we got it to all turn smoothly.
Click to expand...

Majiga WROTE:

"nah we die grinded the underside of the piston sleeves took 10 hours to do it avoiding water jackets and oil gallies. was actually pretty scary lol
Click to expand...

One guy here in the UK took his engine to a builder and they ground them, ruining the set of forged rods in the process. Some people really shouldn't be in the engine building game!

Interesting there is still a clearance issue even with the re-designed par rod. Perhaps they are using a larger 3/8" ARP fastener rather than the more common 5/16" on a rod that size.
 

CMF_Majiga

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First round of intercooling system tests went well. Dropped 10 Litres of water from 30 degrees down to 10 degrees in 20 minutes. The Aquarium chiller runs damned near silent. Caravan water pump flows at a good stable speed. Inverter drained no power from the battery running the chiller while the motor runs. But like a refrigerator the chiller has the awful knocking of the compressor when it gets bumped. Need to pull it apart and stabilize it from underneath with rubber matting and some strong zippy ties so it can't bounce around and all should be fine.
 

CMF_RTK

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Majiga WROTE:

Inverter drained no power from the battery running the chiller while the motor runs
Click to expand...

Of course it won't, the battery is a power source to the starter motor to get the engine running then once it's runs the alternator takes over
 

CMF_SSUK

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Great price on the box, they cost a sweet penny to get over from Japan with matching shafts.

Remember to flick through kovert/tmrs build thread regarding the box modifications needed to mate it up properly to the block and selector if yours is an early K10 bellhousing.

 

CMF_deNs

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Majiga WROTE:

"First round of intercooling system tests went well. Dropped 10 Litres of water from 30 degrees down to 10 degrees in 20 minutes. The Aquarium chiller runs damned near silent. Caravan water pump flows at a good stable speed. Inverter drained no power from the battery running the chiller while the motor runs. But like a refrigerator the chiller has the awful knocking of the compressor when it gets bumped. Need to pull it apart and stabilize it from underneath with rubber matting and some strong zippy ties so it can't bounce around and all should be fine.
Click to expand...

I can't know for sure, but I have a feeling you're going to run in to troubles when the system is in place and you're hoping to cool down the intercooler in a similar way to how water-to-air intercoolers work on Subaru's and the like.

How big is the compressor? 1/5hp? 1/6hp even? If you don't know, post up what's stamped on the compressor if you get a spare minute as I'd be interested to see what you're using. I spent a number of years watercooling my computers, ultimately moving on to single-stage refrigeration with systems that are probably functionally identical to yours. They are often overengineered but small units like the one I imagine you might be trying to use aren't designed to be used with a big heat load. I discovered that myself when using a system designed to cool down a computer chip and attempting to cool some water pumped into a coil of beer wort (part of the process of homebrewing) and it simply couldn't keep up. That was a 1/4HP unit that I pulled from a standard size fridge/freezer.

The chiller adds another complexity as you're having to cool the water to cool the intercooler and I'd put a big bet on the water heating up a lot faster than it can be cooled, and you'll end up pumping warm water around.

It's a good idea but one that I think will bring you more headaches than it's worth. Kudos for trying something a bit left-field though :)

Good luck!

Edit: Also, did you do the projector lens conversion yourself? I ALWAYS wanted to do that! Awesome.

---dens
 

CMF_Majiga

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Dens the compressor says on the side of it 1/15hp. the chiller i have is used to cool down 40 gallons of water down to freezing temps. large fish tanks. but it seems the compressor is pretty small. From what im reading on 4x4 forums the temps going into the plenum are from 30-45 degrees on a 25 degree day using liquid to air intercooler. If i can get the water to remain around 25 degrees with the chillers help i may gain a stable feed of temp to the intake. Lol i could always chuck the resovoir of water into a waeco chiller for double chill. take a packed lunch too lol.
 

CMF_Majiga

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quick test would be set slow cooker on 45 degrees and have it in the system and see if the chiller combats the temps or use a hair dryer blowing through the intercooler . thx dens testing to do lol.

Edit after testing with various methods i think its time to come back down to earth and change my headers and dump and get myself a 600x300 fmic setup. costs cash saves brain strain.
 

CMF_Majiga

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thank you guys and yeah thats the first question i asked them they said yeah is the 31v ringing them this morning to make sure everything is correct before they send it on a crate. kinda sick of wasting money on this project i shoulda let my missus just burn it.. i did msg kovert about the correct set up he had for sale for $1700 to no avail or answer (must have ended up in junk). i was only told what the wreckers told me that yes it was a 31v. i guess ill be correcting them tyvm kovert for pointing this out saved me tons of stress. could have done without the true story though :( as far as i knew it was
 

CMF_SSUK

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It will be a miracle if there's an original sticker left though ;)

Far easier to identify by the giveaway vLSD casing, as highlighted.

As for the ratios, only way to tell them is to open the box or source one from a reputable source who knows their oats.

 

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CMF_kovert.k11

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got 31v box and shafts mate - but are in a car that will be up for sale very soon - and not willing to part out - so if u want the box, u'll have 2 take the whole shabang...which probably isn't gonna help u out i'm assuming...got no idea what i'm doing with the box+shafts from the turbo car - do have the dog box setup sitting here, but that project has been put back as TMRS & i are in the process of building a 32gtr
 

CMF_Majiga

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well what ill do is, wait, put in my old original unknown modification box in until something becomes available. if you do get the time to get your dog box in and get the turbo gearbox out give me a yell.
 

cisco

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That thing is a complete weapon. Looks so tough!!!

Awesome work...

FYI - the bottom of my PAR rods also fouled the piston housings, so they were also carefully ground off on blue monster.
 
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