Again..... ga16de to k11

Just registered & new here and found a lot of great topics .

First , i got a 97'n 1.3 , 3d , 106tkm driven .

I Google a lot k11 ga16 stuff etc .. but nothing really usefull stuff just some info and not any pictures of projects .

I understand that ga16de fits to std k11 gearbox and i now the water pump issue.(i don't have rights to use this picture)
But..

one way to solve it . !

( same bore on clutch axle ? ga16de vs cg13de )

So other mods ?? engine mounts ??

I think ill buy some rusty n14 and take engine ga16 ( inc wiring , etc .. ) first part of the exhaust after cat ---> diy rest, F/R brakes .

Any opinions,hints,suggestions,etc ??
or link to some topic who has done it and has enough .nfo

+ right engine mount

hi sfj

some very usefull info here
http://www.k11wiki.com/index.php?title=Main_Page
i think you have a choice of cutting into the chassis, or cut-n-shutting the driveshafts

frank

Haha, I didn't think people actually visited my wiki anymore It would be a better resource if I dedicated more time to writing articles on it (and if people helped me out here!). It's just a bit daunting with so many topics to cover.

Good luck with the conversion! Be sure to take many pictures along the way.

---dens

THX frank , seems a lot easier to mod the chassis. ( just my opinion )
deNs : ill take pictures & link em when i find proper wreck to take what i need. may take some time but ill update when is something worth telling .
and dedicate sometime updating the wiki

one p10 was on mind but it was o ga16ds so i did forget it.

today looked an crashed almera



320tkm driven .. , but a 16ge . better to seek some rusty n14 .

OT : ---> http://nissan4u.com/parts <--- Useful!

i think you's will expect me to say it.. so i will.. damn chopping the rail is dodgy lol, as neat as it looks...

Whoa.. I can't believe I didn't even notice the cut-and-shut in the rail. I think i'd take the route of going electric waterpump before doing that!

---dens

deNs WROTE:

"Whoa.. I can't believe I didn't even notice the cut-and-shut in the rail. I think i'd take the route of going electric waterpump before doing that!<BR><BR>---dens

Click to expand...

nnyep, pretty dodge considering that there's about 10mm width of chasis rail holding a major engine mount in their along with a bit of tin inner guard lol.

Good point.. if that car were in a front-end accident it'd be severely weakened right from that. What gets me is that if they went to all that trouble to make it neat and paint it while they were there, why wouldn't they then reinforce it a huge amount, given how much of a chunk that's been taken out.

It'd be a bit annoying to change that belt as well...

So I guess bottom line - please don't do that if you're putting a GA16 into yours!

---dens

Hmm ..

http://nissan4u.com/parts/sunny/er_...rmostat_water_hose_and_piping/illustration_2/

so if mod the waterpump so the axle away including the " rotor " , and weld ( tig ) the axle's hole.. solved BUT.. (Then no need to cut the chassis/mod/weld.. ) where the electric pump ?

just a expensive one for an example -->

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=DCP8015

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/documents/EWP/EWP80_install_instr.pdf

NOT behind the thermostat right ... ? Lower water hose ?
--> http://www.geocities.com/saab99ewp/pumpinstall.htm ..http://homepage.ntlworld.com/david.jackson17/ewp_install.htm But ideas, how to .. or just hints ?

So today i did get an "Pulsar" ( Sunny here ) .






anyway ga16de , needs at least new clutch & i think ill take a peek what condition really is ( 250Tkm+ driven ) runs nice & sounds ok.. and mutch more torq that in cg13ge i think the performance in k11 will be OK .. even on std ga16

Is that a ga15 or ga16?

edit: ga16


---> http://nissan4u.com/parts/sunny/er_n14/1993_8/type_43/engine_mechanical/

Yeh the reason i asked is because our aussie spec ga16 have a different intake manifold, nice find on that web site but!

Yep, Euro spec, no buldge at end of rocker cover for variable intake cam timing.

btw guys downunder disabling NATS its ( i think nessesary ? )

just asking BEFORE i start the project .. almost " bolt-on " but it wont run .. i hate electrics thats why some who now's can hint me

@ NATS

@ NO NATS

Sorry of BIG pictures links.. :
http://www.lookpic.com/files/k11_nats.jpg
http://www.lookpic.com/files/k11_no_nats.jpg

Little update..

ehm , i did pull the engine @ n14 sometime ago .. but today i peeked at micras ecu , and the wiring was a LOT different ( engines ) that n14 's , anyway ill now when i start swapping wtf to do or not.. , but seen some topics at ga16 injectors , ecu's etc .. so i'm asking will ( or can ) i use the micras wiring's at engine (tb,injectors etc .. wiring's) ???

from memory the micras engine specific wiring was fairly seperate to the rest of the electrics, so maybe see if you can remove the micras wiring and use the n14's wiring to make it just that bit easier.

Heck the wiring in the N14 won't be completely different to the k11 so maybe you could swap all of it out and just modify the lengths of wiring to make it work?

get the engine in first and figure it out i guess.

no you won't be able to use the micra's engine loom, there are 2 main plugs that connect the micra engine loom to the car harness next to the ecu (inside the car)... the black of the 2 plugs mainly has sensors etc running to it for the consult nissan plug located @ the fuse box next to the steering wheel, inside this black plug you'll also locate the water temp sender signal that goes to your dash, and rpm signal. the 2nd plug.. clear/white plug runs the wiper motor, these wires must remain.. rest of the wires in this plug are power to ecu/acc and ign and to the fuel pump relay. (fuel pump i'm not 100% sure whether its in the black or white plug)..

you'll have to use the ga engine loom and graft on those 2 plugs onto the appropriate wires so it plugs into your micra.

there is a seperate loom on the k11 which runs the starter motor solenoid, oil pressure switch and wires for the alternator, this loom also houses the + battery cable to the starter motor itself from the battery. you'll need to modify this existing loom to function on the ga. (change plugs from k11 alternator to ga one, change oil pressure switch plug if there different, starter solenoid plug if there different and starter motor eyelet if its a different size (k11 ones are diff to sr's anyway )

if your finding it difficult sussing what wires do what in the k11, lemme know and i'll see if i can dig up some of my paper work... i've got all the functions written down somewhere... hopefully i still have it

btw, that 4 pin green plug on the ga loom is for the ecu relay.. the k11 uses a relay which is located away from the ecu itself, you'll need to get rid of that relay and run the k11 one and wire it accordingly.

and that small 6 pin one will be for the air conditioning if you are going to run it. (there will be a similar plug inside your car already (but a female version) that this will need to be connected too.

1'st ( this don't make any sense but .. )



&



i did "check" the engine wirings at ecu etc ..
( wire colors colors )

turbo march-rolling shell : if you got some paper work somewhere please inform me , i'll get on my hands haynes book @ k11 , so i can peek wirings / ecu etc ..

to make it more fun, not all K11 have the same wiring.

There's 2 types of ECU for the aussie models!

Yom WROTE:

"to make it more fun, not all K11 have the same wiring.<BR><BR>There's 2 types of ECU for the aussie models!

Click to expand...

true ay, i was gonna say there's also diff wiring between k11's re fuse box's etc.. never noticed 2 diff ecus and i've worked on pretty much every year micra released... the jap ecu's even work on our loom/micra