k11 march help needed !!!

ok so yesterday i went to start my car and it wouldnt start, i discovered it wasnt getting a spark so i put a different distributor on it today and it fired up first turn,

then earlier on i started it again, turned it off and went to start it again and nothing, but it will go on a push start, its not the battery i dont think as it should be fully charged,

is it something to do with my ignition? the car wont turn over, when i try turn the key all i hear is 1 or 2 relays clicking?

Anybody got any suggestions?
 
Have you tried jumping it Emmet? Sometimes batteries can measure good but the voltage collapses when you put a load on the battery.
 
The way I am picking it up is that when you turn the key it just clicks twice then nothing. To me this sounds like an issue with the starter motor not engaging or something like that.
 
i doubt if its the battery if the dashlights are,nt dimming, more like a bad connection maybe ?
did,nt stani have a similar problem a month or two ago :eek:
 
i push started the car and it starts,i checked the voltage in the battery when it was running and its 16 volts, is that too high?
 
where would there be a bad connection

if you had the meter across the battery terminals then a meter problem or the battery really is overvolted (but it would probably be bubbling @ 16v)
or if you had the meter across the battery leads then maybe the terminal clamp ?
 
ive used the meter loads of times its good, i had the leads from the meter touching the battery terminals, i dont understand why it wont turn over using the key, is it something to do with the ignition or a bad connection
 
Right behind where your key goes in. It screws onto the back of your ignition barrel. If your dash lights arent coming on thats when id check that tbh as i took mines apart for no reason. Check all fuses properly
 
i was looking at my ignition switch, its very awkward to take off so i left it, i think ill try a new starter/ or using jump leads if i can
 
Something like this?


IMG_0175.jpg
 
i flashed the codes on my ecu and it came up 55 which means nothing is wrong, could it be that the battery is dead from being boiled from 16volts?
 
i was looking at my ignition switch, its very awkward to take off so i left it, i think ill try a new starter/ or using jump leads if i can

bending the tip of a small star screwdriver 90 degrees, say a centimeter or two from top
would allow you to make the ign switch screw loose in the position it is without stripping anything
then a small electrical screwdriver unscrews the rest, unplug it,plug the next one in then screw it back in behind the key barrel
while the switch is off the connector theirs a way to hot wire, connect 2 points of the plug gets you ignition lights on dash the 3rd connection kicks in the starter motor to start,then release 3rd connection when cars started
my 3 way wire
DSC01540.jpg
 
You should have a connector from the ignition switch to the car loom, disconnect it and wire these together:

black/white (B - 12+)
white (A - radio on)
green/white (IGN1)
brown (IGN2)

At this time you should have the dash lights on, radio on, etc...

Then join these wires together:

red (R - Starter1)
black/yellow (S - Starter2)

These are the wires that will get the starter to work.

Now join these 2 wires to the other 4, as soon as the engine starts, disconnect these 2 wires. Hope this can help...
 
ive a march and the wiring colors are different thanks anyway

Dude, i have a March too and im talking about the correct colours. European K11 have 5 wires for the ignition switch, the March has 6 wires, like on the pic i posted.

Wires on the March ignition switch to the March loom:

White/Red -> White/Black
Blue -> White
Black/White -> Green/White
Red -> Brown
Black/Green -> Red
Black/Yellow -> Black/Yellow
 
where are the 13mm terminals? one of the ones with the 10mm nut on ? and the terminal beside it? do i connect the original positive wire to the 10mm nut?
 
where are the 13mm terminals? one of the ones with the 10mm nut on ? and the terminal beside it? do i connect the original positive wire to the 10mm nut?

hotwiring the 10mm nut should throw the solenoid, and that solenoid then joins the 2 x 13mm nuts on the end of it (to fire the startermotor up)
 
ok so i tried wat you said to do frank twice, once with the ignition on and once with it off, with the ignition off the starter turned but it didnt turn the engine, and with the ignition on there was no noise just sparks
 
ok so i tried wat you said to do frank twice, once with the ignition on and once with it off, with the ignition off the starter turned but it didnt turn the engine, and with the ignition on there was no noise just sparks

no it wont turn the engine because the solenoid is,nt throwing (the starter will just spin)
if its spinning slower or not atall when the ignition is turned on, then it points to a flat battery
 
possibly a flat battery, but why are the lights bright on the dash, maybe the battery is bolloxed from the 16volts it received yesterday when i left it running for 20mins
 
possibly a flat battery, but why are the lights bright on the dash, maybe the battery is bolloxed from the 16volts it received yesterday when i left it running for 20mins

and you,ve slackened the battery terminal clamps given them a good twist ?
 
i dont have another jap battery!! ill just try jump leads tomorrow when my mother is home thanks frank, i let this battery go flat loads of times maybe thats the problem and now it wont hold its charge or something
 
well today i tried jump leads from my mothers car(2 different sets) and still nothing, could it be the starter or starter relay or ignition relay? if there are such things
 
ok so i tried a different starter today and no go, i tried jumpleads again and no good either, what would make the starter not want to engage the flywheel? i push started the car and everything works until i turn it off and the car wont start again
 
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