k11 brains needed

richj

richj

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Ok guys, should have my cg13 sat in my k10 engine bay properly in the next few weeks. Aside from the fuel pump and exhaust issues, I would like to discuss ecu wiring. It seems the wiring between the ecu and engine is nearly completely closed (pre 98 engine). Is anyone in a position to give me a few pointers towards getting the cg13 running (electronically) from a non k11 engine bay? Cheers.
 
rich

i would unpick the sensor wires and cut off any excess wires, so your left with the 12v feed, dizzy wires, coolant temp (the 2 wire one), t/b, fan, pump relay and injectors (non nats only)
 
Why don't you transplant the whole loom - the electrics in you K10 have got to be over 20 years old and it would just make it plug & play.

What are you doing for the fuel tank?
 
Transfering the loom is much harder than it sounds. There isnt really any point either. The lights, dash, fuel level, all of that is k10. All that is needed is the ecu hook up to to engine. What franch has written seems to make sence as far as looking at the ecu loom is concerned. Am I 100% going to need a lamda sensor in the zorst? Fuel tank... ? I havnt decided what to do about the fuel pump, prob will have a pump in the engine bay, keeping the higher pressure in a small area.
 
From the fusebox to the loom wires I think that there are 1 or 2 12v wires - are you going to keep the K10 fusebox? Do you have the wiring diag. for the K11 ECU?

You are using K10 dials still I take it?

Do you even know that the lines from the tank to the 'booster' fuel pump will take the sucution without constricting themselves - are you not going to use a swirl pot - wheat happens if you get startvation under higer g's/low fuel levels?

Craig
 
k10 fusebox, I have the haynes for the k11 which has the wiring diagram. I could manage on my own, but I found asking for experiance is never a bad idea. Yes using the k10 dials, on k10 loom, k10 gearbox and k10 fuel tank.

No I dont know if the lines will handle feeding a higher pressure fuel pump. At first I thought I could answer all the problems in one go. Now I am taking them as they come.

I will have the engine correctly bolted up in the engine bay which will pass MOT type inspection that may be required to satisfy the dvla. I will have the ecu electronics correctly wired to pass inspection (this thread).

After that I have two main problems, 1) fueling, 2) exhaust. I am hoping the k10 fuel lines will handle feeding a k11 pump. If they dont (or the garage wont sign off that it is safe) I will have a problem, by problem I mean it will cost money.
 
High pressure overbraid hose is not *that* expensive and standard high pressure hose is cheap and cheerful (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=FSEIH000) if I were you I'd spend a few quid now to replace it all just so that you don't have to do it later - could you not also fit the K11 tank?

Exhaust will be straightforward, even if you want to keep the system basically stock as you could modift the K11 manifold to link up with the K10 mid section.

Was someone not breaking a ST? They are injected so maybe the fuelling system from that would assist you?
 
rich

i think your feed pipe will be ok (pre pump) but you will need a return pipe, the exhaust is just a cut-n-shut job (1/2 k11, 1/2 k10).
and i,m trying to work out a wiring setup for you ;)
 
Yeah the k10 exhaust should be good up to roughly under the sump, then a k11 (hopefully janspeed) manifold with custom little bit to fit. The k10 has a fuel pump in the engine bay. Forgive my ignorance frank, this is a problem I havnt taken on yet, but does the k10 have a return pipe, i would pressume yes, and if so, would it suffice? Also again I would pressume yes.
 
rich

i doubt if k10,s have one, but it,s no big deal to fit one, it,s just there to return the spill from the pressure relief valve (on the end of the fuel rail)
 
the ECU loom for the engine is stand alone, you obviously need to give it power but other than that it should work.

the other half of the loom is just for sensors, so the ECU puts out info to the dials and thats pretty much it. obviously you also have the fusebox too.

i would transfer the loom, chop it before it heads to the back of the car (keep rear lights, fuel sender etc k10) leave the interior light in there too, maybe keep the k10 fuse box if it has the same fuses, and then bodge some dials. you are just doing the lights really. mileomter is cable, fuel guage is still the same, its just engine warning lights

but really you need to label both looms on EVERY plug, take them both out and strip them back til you know what you need and what you don't need and then blend them together. its long and hard job but anything else will be a bodge
 
the ECU loom for the engine is stand alone, you obviously need to give it power but other than that it should work.
Click to expand...

so I just need to hook the ecu loom up to the engine, supply 12v, and the engine will run perfectly?
 
I'll take some pics when I go visit the car today. Slightly confused about unpicking? If you disconnect the ecu, pull the connector back into the engine bay, everything unclips and you have the loom right? Its been a long time since I took the ecu loom out of the k11, cant remember what I did :glance:
 
rich

you,ll have to unpick and remove the charging and fusebox and lighting wiring, and unpick the dashboard loom to trace the ignition switch and fuel relay wires
 
you need seperate power and fuses for things like injectors, etc but yes effectivly you just give it power
 
I dont have those parts to the loom, just the wiring from the ecu plug to the engine bay, will take pics. Fuel relay I dont have yet, ignition - am using a k10 starter motor which is still wired up with the k10 loom, turn the key and the starter motor would turn over (havnt tried this yet though). Ignition feed to the ecu should be simple no? fuel relay wiring I have no clue about.

Ok so the wiring isnt going to be as simple as I hoped :)
 
you will need a fuel return line, as the k10 doesnt have one (theres three lines on the k11 -- Feed, Return and Breather)...however theres only a few feet of rubber hose as everything under the car is metal pipe...which you can buy from most places in coils and cut to length.

Tbh id be tempted to lean towards fitting a race type fuel tank in the boot...if it turns out the k10 or k11 one will give you problems.

Theres a K11 schematic about somewhere, for NATS and Non Nats ecu's which should help you out...ive got it on my comp at home, but it should be on the net aswell...dunno if its on here or not though. :)
 
richj said:
I dont have those parts to the loom, just the wiring from the ecu plug to the engine bay, will take pics. Fuel relay I dont have yet, ignition - am using a k10 starter motor which is still wired up with the k10 loom, turn the key and the starter motor would turn over (havnt tried this yet though). Ignition feed to the ecu should be simple no? fuel relay wiring I have no clue about.

Ok so the wiring isnt going to be as simple as I hoped :)
Click to expand...

is it pre nats?
 
this is the k11 ecu loom i have:
 

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looks like you may be missing some relays and some fuses if thats the full loom...(looks like youve got wiring for the throttle body, injectors, dizzy and whatever else is off screen in the pic)
 
rich

i think you,ll also need the loom that plug,s into the (mine,s got 3) plugs near the ecu, that go to the ignition, lambda, fuses etc ?
 
I thought it might be the little yellow plug by the ecu (in the pic) that goes to ignition and fuse box>?
 

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