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That looks ideal Frank. Was originally going to just go with an FMU and wideband but with it being my daily driver I'm going to use Emanage or Nistune and get it mapped properly.

Yeah I know they do mate, that was my reasoning behind getting a bigger rad and then running a cooler separate. Since I'll be going turbo wasn't sure how CVT boxes cope with more heat/power. Didn't realise auto's were bigger, that's good to know. You'd think there'd be off the shelf twin core...

I always fit an oil cooler system on my turbo cars- can't believe some don't come with them from the factory, help no end with engine temps. The only problem with coolers on these is the space available! Going to be fitting an ic and looking to sort an improved rad (thanks for the info), which...

If your budget is tight your best bet is to buy good quality part worns. As above if you look on ebay you can find some that's only done a few hundred miles so still got really good tread and pick up a good deal.

Dodgy locking nut mate, I'd remove the bar with it being threaded tbh. You could try red thread locker to see if that helps though.

Might be interested in a set of spacers mate, good work.

When you say cleaned your carb do you mean a quick clean or full dismantle?

Didn't realise they were electric- wasn't sure if they was manual or not. Check your plugs to see if you can see signs of over-fuelling.

Yeah you're right, a positive attitude makes a difference but realistically it all comes down to what someone wants it for. If someone already has one and wants/needs parts they'll give you more than scrap-not as much as you'll break it for yourself though (well very doubtful)- but it's worth...

The only carb engines I've ever owned are in bikes but my guess is it's probably over-fuelling-choke related. Once it's warm its getting too much fuel and cutting out, hence why its unaffected when it's cold.

Lacquer works the same as plastic primer also.

With only a month left on MOT and a definite failure I think you'll struggle to sell it for anything more than scrap tbh.

As Storm says you'll get the most money back stripping it. But you'll need to remove the parts yourself, you could just list the parts and remove them as they sell or remove them and store them in the car if you've got nowhere else. Rash Developments was after an engine

Shells gone with springs and a few other parts so everything available is listed above. Reduced prices on what's left. Cheers

Engines just been collected mate.

Massive kudos for carrying out the repair work mate, most people would have scrapped that but credit to you for putting/increasing your skills and doing it. Swift seats look cool too.

Someone is meant to be picking up the shell and engine tomorrow if they don't turn up I'll let you know. Postage is fine though, as long as costs are covered obviously, I don't mind putting it on a pallet.

Ah fair enough mate, if you're hands are tied then at least you can get the other stuff done yourself.

Yeah putting in a replacement panel is the best repair you'll be able to do- You'll still want to rust proof it but then you'll never need to do it again. You could always buy a cheap welder and learn? You seem willing to put the work in yourself and It's not rocket science mate just trial and...

Those Irwin sockets are really good, get's you out of the hassle of Dremel(mans best friend?)/grinder as do stud extractors if you can get a drill in. The above ones pictured are crap though in my opinion. FWIW I think Gum Gum is rubbish, although is what most people use- you're better off...