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Check the fuel tank for stuff at the bottom clogging up the pickup. Also, another thing that might be failing is the ignition control module within the distributor. Google RSB-53 for the part.

Have you checked inside the fuel tank? K11s seem to collect rust and grime in the sending unit causing these kinds of problems.

Also if you are getting work done on the front suspension anyway, getting them to have a look at the brakes and maybe greasing up the slide pins won't cost much extra.

You probably should. It will be an issue sooner or later, a good garage will be able to find that easily. Mostly just cosmetic, I’d think. Different inspectors will have different ways of looking at corrosion, but some rust on a coil spring won’t affect anything. This might have ”fixed” itself...

Looks like a gear stick. Does an arrow appear next to it when at high revs? If yes, it’s a shift indicator telling you you should shift up for best fuel economy.

A K11 is scary enough in modern traffic at 100 km/h 😂 helps you with fuel economy by keeping speeds down now at least

I would also look at the intake and throttle body, maybe something is out of adjustment etc. not letting enough air in for the engine to idle? I have no idea about coilpack motors, but the dizzy ones did have their fair share of throttle body related quirks.

That’s not a dent, that door is done for. Usually when you buy a door from a wrecker it’s been stripped of parts and you will need to transfer everything from your old door into it. Replacing the door should not be too difficult, but will need some patience and time to get it right. I would...

I would look at the idle air control valve and throttle body waxstat.

Right, the tax benefits might just be for diesel cars. It's hard to know what you need, but the rear-seat-less Micra might be really good deal if you can look past the "but sometimes". During the whole time I owned my K11 I only had someone in the rear seat once, and even that wasn't really...

Are you sure you want to register it back as a 5-seater? The tax savings are small but real, but more significantly the muutoskatsastus for 2-seat conversions does require that the seat mounting points are made unusable. (usually by riveting or welding a plate over them) Also the rear seat of a...

That image is for the manual winder. I’d say the safest bet is to remove the window from the mechanism, there should be holes to access the bolts behind the inner door panel. On a further look I don’t think you need to remove the lifter mechanism itself.

I believe you need to remove the main rear window and its lifter mechanism, then remove the rail between the two window parts, after which the rear quarter window is just slotted in. See this image from the service manual for reference:

Hi, from what I can tell the 12v socket should be next to the cup holders in the lower part of the dash. The location should be easily visible in this picture: Yours might be mirrored to what can be seen here. If the car does not have the socket there, the wiring to it should still exist...

I’m not completely sure how the dash on the K14 would come apart but I do have a sort-of crazy idea that could work. As you have the replacement part, you should be able to see if it’s one that is installed by pushing in from the outside. If that’s the case, and as the existing port is already...

Should be the outermost part of the wiper stalk, give it a twist, or push the stalk away to wash.

Hop on eBay and get an used Sony XAV-AX1000. Pretty much the best thing you could get for that price.

Pretty much yes, there are some differences in the wiring and ECU as the NATS was introduced with the facelift

If you have a first facelift car (big headlights but with distributor) you can quite easily (needs a little soldering or wiring work) swap in a pre-facelift ECU that does not have NATS and a plain metal key will work. Otherwise you will need to have the immobilizer chip copied or programmed for...

Yep, looks like the 2nd facelift (coilpack version) had the bigger logo. Nissan probably didn't want to change tooling for the hood and that's why the holes are still in the place for the 1st facelift logo position. I found a picture of one for sale that confirms the stud/hole position: