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all looks right except for your inner bearing race being stuck on the stub axle, what's that about? my shoe pins and clips look just as rotten, easy enough to replace at a later date. looks like it's gotten toasty in there at some point though, the auto adjuster is normally silver. :)

M10x1, fairly sure I've said it in this thread but I'll say it again, the ferrules are M10x1mm pitch. also look at the end of the pipe, it's a din flare, so you only need to flare it once not twice (flared with the die in place).

If you've bought hoses for the micra they should fit what's on there without having to cut off the ferrules. They should be m10x1 pitch.

Would it be better to remove the pipe to copy the bends., YES. :) leave it on the roll till you've made up the shape you want. :)

kuprinickle is the best stuff, it isn't used by manufacturers because it's prohibitively expensive, steel is cheaper and can be formed in a press off the car. it isn't copper, it's a copper nickle alloy so it doesn't work harden in the same way as copper which would fatigue and fracture on a...

that's fine, tha face needs to be good the rest can look like crap. it's a swaged fitting, which means you squash the pipe on to a cone to make a seal, only bit holding pressure in the taper of the cone, so as long as that's clean and smooth the rest doesn't really matter. where you clamp has...

Pmd you but here is better now I've seen the vid. That isn't binding anymore, it should rub a little bit. With the qheel back on it should spin easy with a bit of rub like that. Nipple is locked at the base of the thread, change the slave cylinder or drill it out. Don't bother with easy outs...

nothing interesting I'm afriad. having passed her MOT, Dot got a service. oil and filters only, nothing else needed doing. been awhile since I serviced anything myself (wife takes her car for MOT and service and my other car isn't on the road) so I was somewhat taken aback by the price of oil...

Thing it's 4 for the rears and 4 for the fronts but could be wrong. They look right, I've not had to replace them in a nissan for a long time and VW are different design.

Changes nothing. Hoses are shagged pipes are solid. Need to see union between pipe and hose on the front but from mot list I'd say its just hoses and a good clean of ferrules needed. Your live is much easier now than this morning. It could go back to **** when you undo the unions but take it...

right, now I can see it, the only thing that's a fail on there is the hoses are shot at the union. the ferrules look a bit iffy but will clean up. The pipes are in ok condition bar the trailing arm pipe where it joins the slave cylinder (about 1" of corrosion, the rest is perfect still)...

PM me your email address. DONT ATTACH ANYTHING permantly until you've got the entire pipe run. trailing arm pipes (rear brakes) are the easiest to do, so I'd suggest you start there if you are replacing the whole system. oh and get a brake flare nut spanner, do not use an open end spanner...

looks alright that. It's good to know it needs a lot of faffing to make right, I think I'll stick with looking out for an OEM double DIN fascia though.

2 options, one, it's not connected as indicator, 2 the little box of magic smoke has been opened and your clocks are fubar without the smoke. try the connector, if that doesn't fix it try a brakers for new clocks (obviously with the same mileage on ;) )

pads and discs. they are already vented, no reason not to get grooved too. brembo max are my preferred, they do make them in the right size and bolt pattern but I'm not sure they are listed for the micra. I like pagid fastroad pads but they are insanely expensive these days. Rears, a good...

LED in a H4 is dubious legality in the UK and will normally be an MOT fail at any good station. How did you find them Mika? I tried them in our van amd on the rf. I didn't like them, they didn't spread well and I found them worse on dark back roads than normal bulbs as well being almost...

If they are seizing up then you most likely have corrosion round the piston seals that's stopping the pistons backing off. You need to strip the calipers and clean. It's not a major job but it is stressful if you haven't done it before. you will have to bleed the brakes after you're done...

fresh ticket for another year. 1 advisory, back box is deteriorating. knew about that. didn't pull me on corrosion on rear springs, but they are to be changed in the next year anyway. now I'll have to service her.

you want a double flare, that kit is fine and identical (excluding the box) to the clarkes kit I've been using for 20 odd years. practice on a bit of pipe before you do it in anger for the first time. use the pipe cutter (massively oversized for brake pipe, I have a dinky one that's perfect...

nothing off the peg. late SR's have a black rather than silver surround that looks much nicer. otherwise you are in to modifications which may or may not be MOT suitable.