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Cheshire.

they get full of crud and become a bitch to adjust. remove, soak in wd40 or ultrasonic bath, refit and adjust with a pin as you have tried already. which reminds me, i must unblock my drivers side one. See, no mention of tigerseal this time....... damn it.

Autoglass are fine, they do what they need to and the local to me is a nice chap who knows what he's doing. Just don't watch. Lol

can't say it's helped with the scratches on my windscreen but it hasn't hurt them either. if you don't have the stuff, water and vinegar in a spray bottle also works to remove rainex.

rain ex can be removed with autoglym glass polish (don't ask how I know this :) ) push the foam back, you don't need a new winscreen for that. :)

I'm fairly sure it will just be the park switch contact and nothing else.

wiper assembly in the tailgate. it has a limit switch to tell it when it's reached it's park location (1 full revolution) (or should do). should look like this inside https://micra.org.uk/threads/rear-wiper-not-working.65838/

hay, we have all done it. I've flattened mine twice whilst working on it by leaving the keys in the ignition. From the owners manual.

remove the dead sealant (but also check the rubber boot above isn't the real reason for the leak). tightening the bolts won't do anything. upol tigerseal is the best stuff. (haven't I said this to you already?), put it on the panel then tighten the bracket back on so it squishes round the...

the park switch is full of verdigris. you will have to remove the whole wiper assembly, take it apart and clean the switch with contact cleaner. you'll see this comment or similar has been made by me quite a few times recently for different things. this time of year and following the crazy...

Mines a 2007, cc. No idea if it's a normal feature but the headlights stay on when I stop the engine then go off when I open the drivers door.

Open door, jiggle door switch on the door return. Maybe a bit of contact cleaner too. Over winter my headlights stop turning off when I open the door guess the culprit.

Got a new lesson today, using aside down can of spray air to freeze the epoxy then a gentle tap saw it break apart. Was rather impressed by how well it worked. Suggested it might work better with a tin of pipe freeze.

if it seems to good to be true............. looks like a rip off of the racechip S or RS unit, which is a 200 note unit. there is quite a high possibility that for this price it's a fancy box with a resistor in it, if I was going down this route I'd be looking to the established makers...

Hi. Good luck, you should have the opposite issues to the rest of us with that low of a mileage. ?

Doesn't need to melt it just warm it enough to delamination from the steel. It might blister the paint I'm afraid. Acetone is the other option. Would need to be stronger solution than nail polish remover but it might be worth a try with a dribble if you have any laying around. Protect...

Heat. Hair dryer might be enough but a hot air gun would be better. Then scrappy scrape scrape.

Tigerseal is the best. It sticks to everything. EVERYTHING, fingers, clothes, shoes, wife, small child.......

Your order is fine. But if its behind the lights (not seen) you could seal over the paint.

Would you mind sliding your seats forwards and looking at the very base on the back of the seat for me? perhaps with a few pictures? Almost every 5 door car I've had the privileged (yer right) of working on, that also came in a 3 door variant used the same seat frames, they just left the lever...